From Queenstown we continued heading south towards Te Anua. Chosen for it’s proximity to Milford Sound and Manapouri for Doubtful Sound. Te Anua was a good choice to stay and we based ourselves here for two nights. It ’s a lovely quiet, well maintained town with lots of activities and a nice range of shops, bars and restaurants.When booking the trip we had to choose between an overnight cruise on Milford Sound or Doubtful Sound, after much deliberation we opted for Doubtful Sound.
We set off to drive to Milford Sound, which was a 148 mile round trip and takes around four hours return without any stops. However it is impossible to not stop on the journey, with so many spectacular views, mirror lakes, viewpoints and glacial valleys. One of our favourite stops was Monkey Creek, known for it’s clear water, mountain views and cheeky Kea Parrots. We encountered a close up with the Keas and they are very bold and beg for food, actually tapping on the vehicle windows. Feeding them is discouraged as they become dependent on humans and lose the ability to find food for themselves. We had prepared ourselves for a long wait at the tunnel that cuts through the mountain on the final descent to Milford, it’s single carriageway and on busy days the wait can be up to twenty minutes. When we joined the queue of four or five vehicles, we only had a three minute wait. From here it was a short drive down to Milford. We had considered an afternoon cruise but after the stunning drive down and knowing we were off to Doubtful the next day, we opted to take a walk around the foreshore and a quick peek at the smallest “airport’ we’ve ever seen. On the return journey, we stopped at another couple of viewpoints we had missed on the way down! All in all a long but worthwhile drive.
We woke up the next morning to wind speeds of 110kph, torrential downpours and poor visibility. Yes it was the day we were travelling to Doubtful Sound for our overnight trip on the Fiordland Navigator. We’d selected Doubtful as it is remote! To reach the harbour where the Navigator sails from, involved a forty five minute catamaran trip across Lake Manapouri, then another forty five minute coach trip to Deep Harbour. Eventually we boarded the boat and after a quick safety briefing and welcome, we were on our way. We sailed along the sound to the Tasman sea and were lucky enough to see the New Zealand Fur Seals basking on the rocks. The weather had eased off a little but it was still choppy, we then headed back towards the Fiords to calmer waters. Against the odds, the crew gave permission for the passengers to either kayak or take a tender boat ride out on the fiord to explore. We both (crazily) opted to kayak, it was a guided tour led by a member of the crew. It poured it down and don’t think we could have been any wetter if we’d have fallen in! M took the waterproof cover for the phone, so we could take photo’s of the proceedings. It was a long fifty minutes, but when setting off back to the boat it seemed to get further away with every stroke. Eventually we were all safely back on board. Not content with that G, along with a couple we had met earlier decided to take a “dip” in the water. Stripped off to their swimmers, in they went. M was the official photographer from the sidelines and chose not to partake in such madness. A buffet dinner was served a little while later and to our absolute delight it consisted of roast dinner. We were in our element for sure. After dinner, with a glass of wine in our hand, we went to the presentation given by the resident nature expert on all things relating to the sound and surrounds. Last orders at the bar were 10pm, so we fell in to bed, exhausted but excited about the day we’d just experienced.
Anchors up at 6.30am and after a nice breakfast buffet, we explored the different arms/areas of the sound for the next four hours. The weather was changeable and all the rain had created a lot of temporary waterfalls, which were spectacular. All too soon we were back at Deep Sound for the return journey to Manapouri. An absolutely fantastic, once in a lifetime trip that had to be experienced to be believed. We are both fairly sure that nothing else can top the two Sounds – Milford and Doubtful.
A short flight from Auckland and we were in Christchurch. It was a quick one nighter, as we are heading back to Christchurch for two nights later in the month, before we fly to Sydney. Without any trial we were taken straight to prison. Our accommodation for the night was a cell in a former prison, Addington. We’d chosen a double private cell, as we couldn’t face sharing a dorm with bunkbeds. Up early the next morning to catch the Trans Alpine train from Addington to Greymouth. One of the worlds great train journeys covering 139 miles in five hours and travelling through the Otira Tunnel which is just under five miles long. Arriving in Greymouth, we picked up our hire car for the next three weeks. “Gavin Still” is a bright white (described by hire car employee) hybrid Hyundai Kona. We were off! Rather than head straight to our first stay over, we headed north as we wanted to see the “Pancake Rock” layered limestone formations, marine fossil layers compressed over millions of years and they eroded by the sea. Well worth the detour.
The first overnight stop was just over an hour away in Hokitika, a small west coast town. Chosen to ensure that we didn’t have to drive too far on our first day. A short drive from our motel, was a “Glow Worm Dell” So after dinner and sunset we headed there, to see if we could spot any. As it got darker the glow became visible and the small dell was softly illuminated, it was like standing amongst very subtle fairy lights. A fabulous find, both the town and the dell.
Fox Glacier was our next destination with stops on the way, including Franz Josef for a lunch stop and then Gillespie Beach – which was an 8 mile drive down a bumpy track and finally a viewing point for the glacier. The second day it was thick with cloud and raining, we walked the track around Matheson Lake. If the weather is settled the lake provides a perfect mirror reflection of the mountains behind. We were out of luck on our visit! The second walk of the day took us up the side of the Fox river to another glacial viewpoint. It was amazing to watch the glacier being exposed then covered again by the moving low level cloud. Delicious dinner in the Cook Saddle Cafe & Saloon rounded off our stay in Fox Glacier Township.
Before leaving for our ultimate destination Wanaka, which was a three hour forty minute drive, we bookmarked a few places of interest to stop on the way. Knights Point, Ships Creek, Haast, a couple of waterfalls and then finally towards the end of the journey Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. Wherever you looked there were massive views. We were desperate to see the famous “That Wanaka Tree” – the most photographed tree in New Zealand. It didn’t disappoint, the tree has been there for around seventy years and was originally a farm fence post.
Next morning was clear and sunny, so we drove up to Mount Aspiring national park, parked up and took a short walk along some of the lakeside tracks. The sun had a halo around it, due to the atmospheric conditions. A stunning optical illusion. Headed back down to the town for a wander around and browse in the many independent shops. A friend who had been to Wanaka backed up our findings that the bakery there serves the best pies. We have been trying to limit our intake, however it’s hard to resist as they are everywhere. We rounded off the day by taking a walk along the lake to see the tree again and then dinner at the local Chinese restaurant.
Off to the adventure capital of New Zealand – Queenstown, for our longest stay of recent times, three nights. Nothing planned in advance however bungy jumping wasn’t going to be on the list. First, the journey down was another good un! Cardrona bra fence was the first stop, not your usual tourist attraction but back in 2000, four local women hung their bras on a fence on their way home on New Years eve. Since then tourists from all over the world leave their bras behind and it has raised hundreds of thousand dollars for the Breast Cancer Foundation, NZ. A short drive away is the oldest and most photograhed hotel in NZ, the Cardrona Hotel. Onwards over the Crown Range and stopped off at the summit overlooking Queenstown. It was here we discovered that Queenstown was founded by one of the first European explorers/settlers back in 1827 – WG Rees. Of course G is convinced he is a long lost ancestor. Had to laugh at the caption on the monument – “The Promise Land Of Rees” Checked in and caught up on admin and phone calls to family and friends. After a bit of research we found the perfect activity to do. A jet boat ride up the Shotover Canyon, so with that booked we set off to drive to a local town that had been on our to visit list – Arrowtown. A historic gold mining town where Chinese immigrants had settled in the 1800’s during the Otago Gold Rush. Once again the town had a nice mix of independent shops and an attractive main street. G had his eye on a gold panning kit, but we had to leave it behind, no luggage space. Walked through the partially restored Chinese settlement, to learn about the history and hardships the Chinese immigrants faced. Drove back to Queenstown, took a walk through the town, found the WG Rees statue (with a sheep) – obligatory photo of G next to it. Wandered along the lake towards the edge of town and the beaches.
Our final full day in Queenstown and we headed out of town to the Shotover Jet. Watched a few of the jets coming and going before it was our turn. Lifejacket on, G was first on the jet and chose the front seat next to the driver, hoping that he may need his help! The jets are actually large jet skis, they carry seventeen passengers and can operate in just ten centimetres of water. OK, so our twenty minute experience was action packed. Reaching speeds of fifty six miles per hour, through narrow canyons, near misses with cliff faces and 360 degree spins , it certainly got the adrenaline going. In the afternoon, we chose a nice sedate drive along Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy. Once again the views were stunning and Glenorchy provided a nice pitstop for a bit of cake and a beer for G. M was the designated driver for the return journey. Stopped off at Bobs Cove, which actually sounded more exciting than it was, especially as it was a forty minute round walk. That concluded our first week on the South Island and here’s to another two weeks exploring this beautiful island.
Landed in Auckland a day after leaving Tahiti! We lost a complete day again. We picked up the hire car “Gavin Still” which was a blue Mitsubishi ASX. Note that every car we have hired since 1999 has been called “Gavin Still” No worries driving as they drive on the left. We had eleven nights on the island. It was a hard decision on what to see in the limited time. We’d mentioned the far north, we wanted to stand on the most Northern point of NZ, see the lighthouse and the point where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean. It was worth the seven hour round trip drive from Paihia in the Bay of Islands.
We headed back south of Auckland to the Coromandel Peninsula and stayed in Whitianga, where we took an amazing coastal cruise and saw a pod of dolphins, purely by chance. Headed back up the peninsula to Tairua for a couple of nights before heading further south to Rotorua to see the geothermal pools/features. Originally the glow worm caves in Waitomo were on the list but it was another two hour drive from Rotorua. We had planned to visit on the way back to Auckland but the weather was horrendous with thunderstorms and torrential rain. Arriving in Auckland and the weather was against us, we had a very quick look around the city before heading to our overnight stay. Car handed back to the hire company in one piece and we had clocked up 1,179 miles. A whirlwind trip and we just managed to scratch the surface of what the North Island had to offer.
Day 1 – Auckland to Mangawhai
Day 2 – Langs Beach, Waipu Caves, Whangarei Basin, Paihia
Day 3 – Cape Reigna, Lighthouse, Te Paki Sand Dunes, 90 Mile Beach
Day 4 – Waitangi Treaty Grounds, Hundertwasser Public Toilets, Russell
Day 5 – Drive from Paiha to Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula via Whangarei Waterfall
Day 6 – Coast Cruise from Whitianga, Kuaoruna Beach
Day 7 – Drive from Whitianga to Tairua via Hot Water Beach
Day 8 – Tairua – Climbed Mount Paku
Day 9 – Drive from Tairua to Rotorua via Thames, Kuirau Park
Day 10 – Waiotaupe Geothermal Park, Government Gardens
A first occurred during this flight! The first time we have crossed the international dateline. Fortunately we realised before the trip or we would have been on the streets of Tahiti for our first night. Flight left Fiji on Tuesday lunchtime, a four hour flight and we landed in Tahiti at 19.00 on MONDAY! Airport was pretty easy to get to and we found a taxi, however he was the French Polynesian Del Boy! Eventually we got to our accommodation, we met the owner Michel and put our bags in the room. Due to timings we went straight out for food. We remember all too fondly the many bank holidays in Europe. The Tuesday was a bank holiday, Armistice Day.
Beautiful weather, but first we went to the supermarket to pick up some supplies for the next few days, got organised then walked down to the beach. Michel kindly made some phone calls for us to arrange a hire car, we’d been so disorganised and not sorting it out. We spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool. An early start the next morning, we needed to be at the car rental office by 7.30am and again our host showed kindness by dropping us there. Soon we were off in our small Renault Kwid with it’s 999cc engine! Budget over style. The island isn’t too hard to drive on, one road circumnavigates the whole island. As per usual, it rained but we set off undeterred. We headed towards the south of the island towards Teeapoo. This is where the Paris Olympics in 2024 held the surfing event. The waves are spectacular and we were hoping to take a boat trip out to see them. Unfortunately due to the weather the boats weren’t running. We then drove down the other side of the peninsula to Tautira and finally the Belvedere view point. Pretty narrow and steep roads, the car struggled but got us there.
The next day we were going to drive the east and north of the island. We drove down the west coast to avoid the traffic in the main town of Papeete. On the way we picked up the water gardens we had missed the previous day. By this stage the rain was worse than ever, so set off again with the intention of going to a double waterfall, however the weather had other ideas. Next up was the blowhole, again no luck as the path was closed (and has been for a while) So we parked up by the side of the beach, got out the umbrella and watched the waves crashing in. Stopped at a few beaches on the way up to watch the surfers and eventually we arrived at Venus Point and the lighthouse. There wasn’t as much on this coast as the other, so soon we arrived in Papeete, had a quick wander around the town before dropping off the hire car.
On our last morning, we had decided to visit the museum of Tahiti which was a short walk away from our accommodation. We got to the museum and it was closed!
Fifty minutes after leaving Tahiti, we were landing in Bora Bora. This was a splurge destination and we had three nights in a hotel, no Air BNB this time. We landed at the tiny airport that is on it’s own island. When we booked the agent told us that we had a boat transfer. What we hadn’t realised was that we had our own private boat and captain. “Lady Pearl’ We felt like celebrities leaving the airport. The captain allowed G to take the wheel of the boat and encouraged him to do a “donut” Arrived at the hotel and a porter and receptionist was waiting for us at the dock and took us to check in. The manager of the hotel wanted to speak to us and secretly we hoped our room had been upgraded. Unfortunately no upgrade, but we had a chat with her, she likes to welcome every guest personally. We had a beachfront bungalow, with a nice view over the lagoon. Was the cost worth it? Probably – breakfast , return flights and the private boat transfer were included in the cost.
Next morning M was up and ready to try paddle boarding, it was on the “to do” list for ages. Spent the next two hours in the lagoon on and off the board – more off but both of us were able to stand up. A great experience in a beautiful location.
We’d found a local beach club on the popular Matira beach, so had dinner there a couple of nights. The food at the hotel was eclectic and eye wateringly expensive. Rain stopped play the next day, snorkelling and more paddle boarding had been the plan, however it was a washout. We went for beer and pizza whilst planning bits of the Australian trip. Next morning we had to be at the boat dock by 7.45am for an early start. All too soon our Bora Bora adventure was over.
Our final destination was Moorea. We’d been pretty organised for this part of the trip and booked a hire car in advance. Soon we were set loose on the island. We’d arrived early and were unable to check in, so we stocked up at the local supermarket and checked out the local beach. Once we were able to we headed to the accommodation. Took a few attempts to find it, it was off the main road, down a small bumpy side road and tucked away in a secluded sub tropical garden. Lovely location and so peaceful. We hadn’t planned anything further than driving around the island. By the time we’d left, we driven around the island twice. We went to the juice factory for a tour and rum tasting, lunch and snorkelling at Coco Beach, a motu out in the bay. Managed to spend a couple of afternoons on the beach as well. Our favourite being “pig beach” We were both dozing when we heard a snuffle and grunt, opened our eyes to see a massive pig lumbering towards us. It wandered down the beach, then back again, had a paddle, walked back to the road and we assume it went back home. We are still laughing about it now. On leaving Moorea we headed back to Papeete for one night before an early morning flight out to Auckland, New Zealand.
Despite the fears about the journey, it wasn’t too bad! Once our feet was on Australian soil, we had a delicious breakfast and then managed to get a few hours sleep in the airport. Fortunately we had a transfer arranged in Fiji, so we knew once we landed we would soon be on our way. Ali, our driver met us as arranged and took us to a supermarket on the way to the hotel to get some supplies for our room. When booking Fiji we were confused! Most people opt to stay on the islands, however we couldn’t face getting off the flight and getting to the port for an onward boat trip – the closest island resort is around and hour and a half from the mainland.
Dropped at the hotel, we checked in and taken to our Oceanview Bure. It was lovely (although you had to squint to see the sea) The next day we had a pool day to rest and recover.
Alarm set ready for a day trip to the Coral Coast, we had arranged for Ali to take us. First stop was Pottery Village, where we took part in a welcome ceremony, drank Kava (non alcoholic) and had a demonstration of the pottery making process. Then we had the opportunity to buy some of the handmade crafts. We did buy a few small bits that would fit in our case, to support the village. Next up was Sigatoka town, took a walk around and looked at the markets/shops. Ali had warned us that the market traders will try and entice you to their shops, where your would pay over the odds for anything. Fortunately we avoided the one guy that attempted to take us to his shop, we had learned well in India. That said it was nowhere near as pressured as Delhi. A restaurant had been suggested to us, as it would be the only opportunity to eat, until we returned back to the hotel. At this point we weren’t that hungry, but we headed for King Singh’s. Walked through the door and it was more like an informal snack bar, so we had a light bite. G ordered a large beer, expecting it to be a pint. A 1.25 ltr bottle was put on the table and our faces were a picture. Our bill for a toasted sandwich/fries, omelette/fries, bottle of water, can of coke and the huge bottle of beer came to £12.15! Next stop, the sand dunes. There was the option of two walks, we opted for the shorter route as the weather was hot. The dunes are the largest in South Pacific and the sand was so hot, but eventually we reached a deserted beach. It was full of driftwood and made a striking sight. We walked along the shore and then back through the forest to the start point. By this time it had started to rain. Final stop of the day was Natadola Beach and fortunately the rain had blown over. We’d brought our towels, so had a quick paddle/swim before lying down for an hour on the warm sand. On arrival Ali had pointed us to Miriam, who was manning a massage shack on the beach. Went and spoke to her and both had a massage. G enjoyed it more than M, even though she’d asked for medium pressure, it felt pretty firm. What a great day and Ali had given us lots of info and stories of Fiji life.
The next few days, the weather was mixed but mainly with clouds and light rain in the late afternoon. We spent time by the pool and beach and walked to the local marina. We found a bar/restaurant and planned to eat there one night. We kept putting off booking a boat trip, but it was now or never and we eventually booked for our last full day, as the weather looked better.
For the second time in Fiji our alarm was set for an early morning. Collection time of 7.45am meant that we did have time for breakfast before setting off. However our room phone rang at 6.30am, the driver was here to collect us! We did point out the time on our confirmation and he said he would wait. It was an hours drive over to the port from our hotel, however we were still there over an hour before our departure. Fortunately the port has some shops, so we had a browse before getting onboard. The first choice of boat/trip wasn’t available for our chosen day, so we’d opted for the 2nd option. It was a great day though. The catamaran sailed for nearly two hours, passing by some of the islands before anchoring by a reef and a sand bar. Fully equipped with snorkelling gear, tender boat if you didn’t want to swim to the reef, paddle boards and a SLIDE! Served a delicious lunch and had about three hours anchored. We’ve done several boat trips over the years and always a little disappointed with them, however this trip was fantastic, well priced and exactly as promised. A slight hiccup on our return to the port, there was no taxi waiting to take us back to the hotel, however it was soon sorted and we made it back to take advantage of happy hour. Thoroughly enjoyed our Fijian adventure, both agreed that six nights was long enough to give us a flavour of the country and witness the hospitality. As it’s so far from England and not that easy to get to, we probably won’t make it back – but never say never.
Next stop, a three island adventure in French Polynesia – Tahiti, Bora Bora and Mo’orea
The flight from Delhi to Singapore was an overnighter, we figured it better to book the hotel room for an extra night. We wanted to head to the hotel, have breakfast and then get a decent sleep. Getting into Singapore was an absolute dream, we’d completed the pre arrival online, at the airport we were able to use the E Gates and did not speak to any immigration staff. Only downside was no stamp in the passport. Hotel room was described as a “cabin” and we were slightly worried about the size of it. However it was the most comfortable bed and had everything we needed, we slept for a good few hours before waking up fully refreshed. The only thing we had planned to do was visit Raffles for a Singapore Sling, apart from that we would see where the city took us.
We stayed just off the main shopping street, Orchard Road and have never seen so many malls with designer shops. We did have a browse and during our stay we kept getting lost in the Ion Mall, it had more than three hundred shops. Pit stop at a craft beer bar and had some “finger food” chicken satay and edamame beans. Never having tried the beans before, we had to google how to eat them! We booked a restaurant for the evening as we were both craving red meat.
Next morning we’d decided to buy a two day HoHo bus ticket, this would be a great way of seeing Singapore. With two lines to ride, we chose the yellow line and stayed on the bus for the whole loop. We then set off again and jumped off at the various stops that had caught our attention. The Singapore Flyer, F1 Grand Prix Pits, Helix Bridge, Marina Bay Sands Hotel. We then decided to walk around the bay to Fullerton, however a thunderstorm rolled in and did it rain! We took shelter for a while before making a run for it. We found the Lion overlooking the harbour, then decided to go and find the Old Hill Street Police Station, with its 927 shuttered windows painted in rainbow colours. It was still drizzling and we relied an umbrella and plastic poncho’s. Once we’d taken photos of the shutters we decided to go in search of the Hawker Centre, full of food stalls. We were in search of satay and soon food a stall selling them, had a mix of beef, chicken and pork belly. We had a quick look at the other places before leaving and found a cake stall, both of us chose an egg custard. Delicious! We then found the MRT station and caught the metro back to Orchard Road.
The next day we went on the red line, this route would take us through Little India and Chinatown, as per the previous day we did the whole loop to see where we wanted to hop off. Back at the beginning, we jumped off then walked over to Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar. When we arrived there was a massive queue, it took us an hour to “get in”. G opted for a beer and M a SS. We both expected it to be meh, but it was delicious. It was great for people watching and G munched his way through the complimentary peanuts, the shells are then disposed of on the floor. It’s the only place in Singapore you can throw litter on the floor. Thoroughly enjoyed the experience! Back over to the HoHo stop, we chose to head back towards China Town and miss out Little India – we were still India’d out. First off though, we went back to the Hawker Centre – Lau Pa Sat to get some food. This time we opted for a Chinese meal and had a beef stir fry and a pepper chicken dish with rice. Another great low cost meal. Heading back to the cake stall for another cake, we saw a small stall with a lady selling tapioca cake, she did us a deal on three pieces.
Walked through China Town and explored the small streets crammed with shops selling everything you could possibly need. Took some photo’s and then found a bar for happy hour drinks. We’d decided to stay out and see Marina Bay lit up, so headed back to Fullerton Quay. Unfortunately it was too far to see the light show at the shopping centre, but we saw the hotel and complex lit up, along with the Helix Bridge. Tired out after another full day, we caught the MRT back.
Our final day was going to be a long one, we had to check out of the hotel by 11am and our flight didn’t leave until 10pm that evening. The hotel very kindly let us keep the room until 1pm free of charge, so we only had four or so hours to fill before leaving for the airport. Had a wander around our favourite massive mall and got lost again, more so to keep out of the hot humid weather. We then took a walk up Emerald Hill, just off Orchard Road, where the properties are still original with beautiful architecture and although it’s just a minutes walk away from the busy street, it was quiet and peaceful amongst all of the high rise buildings. Time for a drink and snack of satay and edamame beans before picking up our luggage and heading to the airport.
The next part of the journey was going to be a killer! Late flight out from Singapore to Brisbane, with a flight time of around six hours, then a four hour layover in Brisbane before the four hour onward flight to Fiji. Incorporated in to this was a couple of time differences too!
Unsure on where to stay in the centre of Delhi, we had opted to stay close to Connaught Place. It meant that we had shops and restaurants in walking distance. The smog of the city was particularly high and part of the reason was the recent Diwali celebrations. We had three nights and three days to fill, the flight wasn’t until 9.30pm and we had to checkout at 11am.
So the first day, we decided to walk to Connaught Place, for a bit of lunch and to browse some of the shops. Now we expected to have some hassle however it was off the scale. Randoms wanting to befriend us, who claimed not to be travel agents or shopkeepers but trying to send us on a diverted route or go to a specific office for a map. In the end we had to go in to a “chain store” to escape one of them. Absolutely hate to be rude, however the minute you engage that is it. We’d walked past a bar that we had been in when staying in Aerocity and decided to dip in there to escape, have a much needed alcoholic drink, some lunch and to plan our next move/escape! When we made the move, we didn’t have too much hassle.
On the basis of the experience of being alone in Delhi, we decided to book an evening tour in Delhi to cover off a few of the sights we had missed on our first round (due to the traffic). So in the morning, we finished off the trip planing for New Zealand and set off full of expectation for our tour. The guide seemed a bit chaotic, however listened to where we wanted to go and planned the tour accordingly. First up was the Stepwell Baoli then on to the Lotus Temple for a brief look from the outside. We weren’t surprised when we were taken to a shop, which annoyed us. G had a quick 5 minute look then we went on our way. Next up was the Safdarjung Tomb, a smaller mausoleum based on the Taj Mahl. Presidential Palace we had to view afar as there is a large exclusion zone around it but it was interesting to see it lit up. Our final stop was India Gate, the first time we went, we could only view it from across the road, as the area was cordoned off for a concert. That was it! Delhi done. In true Indian fashion though the guide had a final attempt to extract money from us, by wanting to take us to dinner – obviously he wasn’t paying and we would end up in an overpriced restaurant where he would get a cut. We said no thanks and we were dropped back at the hotel. Unable to stomach the thought of roaming the streets from 11am until 6pm, we did a bit of research and found out that the hotel we had stayed in at Aerocity offered dayroom for a 5 hour period. That was it, we booked one, rested there for the afternoon and was able to walk to the food court for a meal before leaving for the airport,
Was India Enjoyable? Yes
Would We Go Back? Possibly
Favourite Place? Golden Temple – Amritsar (Both agreed on this)
Favourite Driver? Ankit
Favourite Guide? The Little Doctor In Fatepur Sikri – Though All Guides Were Great
Best Pieces Of Advice Decent Guides/Driver, Keep Your Wits About You and Read Up On Common Scams. Get Smaller Bank Notes and Prepare To Tip Everyone
When booking the trip, we had a quick look at a train transfer between Dehli and Varanasi. We’d watched a few videos and quickly decided to fly there. Our flights were booked with Indigo, which appeared to be the Indian version of Easyjet. Whilst booking the flights, we also decided to do a quick couple of nights to Amritsar and it was easier to book the flights to coincide with each other. Despite being sceptical of the airport process and airline, it was pretty straightforward.
Fortunately our guide in Varanasi had arrange for a taxi to collect us at the airport and took us to the closest road to our hotel. We had opted to stay in the “old district” of the city, where there are no roads, just narrow alleys. The hotel provided a porter to meet us at the drop off point and escort us to the hotel on foot and carry our luggage. As we knew this in advance, we travelled really light with just a small carry on each, no way would we have negotiated it with all our luggage. Hotel was very traditional, no frills, a little tired around the edges, however it was clean, had a hot shower and the staff were very kind and helpful, nothing too much trouble for them.
Day 1 Varanasi – We met Jyoti, our female guide for the next two days and threw ourselves right in to Varanasi. We spent the day exploring the streets, temples and ghats! We visited the first of two cremation ghats, Maharaja Harishchandr. Jyoti explained fully the process and why Indians choose to come to Varanasi to die and be cremated by the side of the Ganges. One thing that surprised us was the animals just wandering around the ghat! Dogs, goats and even a sheep pushed past us. We were under the impression that all the ashes are scattered on the Ganges, however this is not the case, the family take some, a small amount scattered and apparently the government deal with the rest, we imagined where they’d end up. A chaotic Tuk Tuk ride to the biggest university complex, where we had a look around the public grounds and the temple before enjoying a cup of lassi (yoghurt, water & spices) and a samosa with a spicy dip.
We then headed back to the Ghats and strolled along the Ganges taking in the sights and sounds.
Stopped off at an Italian restaurant, which was founded back in 1992 by an Italian and was the first one in India. Jyoti joined us for lunch and we had the most delicious pasta and pizza.
We continued to walk along the river, just watching everyday life of the locals and despite our reservations, we had very little hassle. We headed back to the hotel and enjoyed a quiet evening sat on the rooftop terrace enjoying a few drinks and watching the boats sailing by. Early’ish night as the alarm was set for 4am the next morning.
Day 2 Varanasi – Early alarm call as we were heading to the Assi Ghat for the morning Arti Subah – e – Banaras – to celebrate the morning and the Ganges. The day before Jyoti has asked if we wished to partake in one of the ceremonies lead by a local school for girls, celebrating young women and their empowerment. To take part, we had to promise Jyoti (who in turn had to confirm to the teacher) that we would take a shower in the hotel before we left. At first when she was telling us about showering, we both thought we’d have to do in in the Ganges! It was a lovely experience and we were made most welcome, both slightly worried that we’d do something wrong, however we followed the lead of the others. What an experience. We sat down for a few minutes and had a chai latte to wake us up before wandering down to catch a boat for a trip down the Ganges. The sun had risen and it pretty peaceful, despite the amount of boats on the river. We cruised for a short while, then the crew cut the engine for us to admire Varanasi from the water, Jyoti had charted the boat just for us, so we were able to get the best viewing/photos spots. All too soon we were dropped off close to the holiest cremation Ghat on the Ganges – the Manikarnika. It had a different feel to the one we had visited previously, piled high with wood and stalls selling all manner of supplies for the families to purchase for the cremation. It has a very distinct smell and we stood a respectable distance away from the families and pyres. We then started to walk up the lane away from the ghat, this lane is used to transport the bodies down. A male family member has to carry them, almost half a mile over their shoulder. M was glad that we avoided a person on their final journey. Jyoti lead us to a small door within a bigger door and we found ourselves at the Shri Satua Baba Ashram Mandir, a spiritual centre and provides a place for learning, teaching Sanskrit & Vedas to boys. Enrolled between the ages of six to twelve and are totally self sufficient from the point they join. We watched the morning prayer and rituals before moving on. The next thing we know we are sat in a shop of religious paraphernalia, waiting for the priest from the Kashi Vishwanath Temple to process our application to visit the temple. Our passports and £9.40 were needed to gain entry and fast track the four to five hour queue of devotees. We both had no clue what was happening, however we bought a medium sized offering to take with us. The priest returned with our authorisations and we had to almost run after him down the narrow streets to the temple to keep up with him. It was chaotic and still we had no idea what was happening. We eventually got to the smallish queue with our fast track passes and noted that the Hindu’s were literally glimpsing into the temple then being manhandled out of the way, to ensure the queue moved as possible. By the time we got to the temple “window” we looked, G threw in the offering and moved on quickly. We were stopped and both had a garland put around our necks. Apparently we had been blessed by god. The priest then ushered us through the temple, pointing out things and again we were clueless. We were deposited back to Jyoti in record time. The priest then hung around for a tip (of course). Walked back through the narrow lanes and local fruit market, with the constant beeping of horns ringing in our ears. We picked up a taxi and drove out to the Buddhist temple at Sarnath, which is one of eight important pilgrimage sites for Buddhists, it was here the Buddha gave his first teachings to his original five disciples in 528BCE. Inside the temple are paintings depicting the story of Buddha’s life. Around the temple are gardens/grounds with food stalls. We tried the sliced cucumber with black pepper and salt, a take on Bombay mix, wrapped in newspaper with a “spoon” made from a square of cardboard, all washed down with a freshly squeezed sugar cane drink with a touch of salt. By this time we had been on the go for ten hours and the temperatures rising, we opted to say goodbye to Jyoti and head back to the hotel. We’d spent two fabulous, full on days with her in Varanasi and we couldn’t have chosen better. That evening we ate on the roof terrace at the hotel, with our server “The Boss” standing by with a catapult to deter the local monkey troupe. The catapult has never been used, they see it and move on. Next stop Amritsar, via Delhi.
Varanasi to Amritsar was a long drawn out journey, we had to catch a flight back to Delhi, a couple of hours layover at the airport then a short forty five minute flight. Arrived at the hotel and had something to eat, we didn’t have long until we were getting up. Alarm set for 3.15am, our “Adventure Captain” Ram was meeting us at 4am. First on the agenda was the Golden Temple. This was our main reason for travelling to the city. Ram explained the history of the Sikh religion and the temple, before we entered and saw it for the first time. It look spectacular! It became clear why we had arrived so early, we were going to watch the Prakash ceremony, this marks the “awakening” of the Guru Granth Sahib. The scripture is ceremonially taken to the Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple). What a ceremony and we had almost a front row view.
When planning G had mentioned wanting to visit the community kitchen at the temple. The kitchen feeds over 100,000 people a day and apart from the chefs, everything else is done by volunteers. The tour of the temple is done in a clockwise direction. The Ramgarhia Bunga is a red sandstone building at one end of the palace and houses the pillars and a slab that were brought from the Red Fort in Dehli after the war in 1783. Nobody else was there and had a birds eye view of the temple. Just behind was the Langar (Community Kitchen) which resembled an old factory. We were able to access all the kitchens, food prep areas, stores and the dining hall. It’s like a well oiled machine with hundreds of volunteers, even so early in the morning. We spent a almost forty five minutes walking through and taking everything in. At the end of the tour Ram asked if we wanted to eat something, G took the opportunity and we sat on the floor in the dining hall, whilst he enjoyed a meal consisting of curry, rice, chapati and a sweet rice pudding to finish. It’s probably the earliest he’s ever eaten a curry. By the time we’d completed our tour, it was daylight outside and the view of the temple looked different. We watched the devoted Sikh’s taking a dip in the pool (Amrit Sarovar) also known as the Pool of Nectar. It’s a central feature of the site and is surrounded by a marble path with a bridge over to the temple’s sanctum. The water is considered to have healing powers. A short walk away from the temple is the Jallianwala Bagh Memorial and garden, dedicated to the victims on the 1919 massacre where over 1,600 round of ammunition were fired on the orders of General Dyer. The plaque reads – This site is saturated with the blood of thousands of Indian patriots who were martyred in a nonviolent struggle to free India from British domination. General Dyer of the British army opened fire here on unarmed people. Jallianwala Bagh is thus an everlasting symbol of non-violent & peaceful struggle for the freedom of India. On a slightly more cheerful note, we headed off for breakfast at a local cafe. We enjoyed the local breakfast speciality of Kulcha, a soft flatbread served with chickpea curry and a spicy dip. All washed down with a cup of Lassi.
In the afternoon we drove out to a local village and visited a farm, where Ram explained the farming methods and techniques in the Punjab, took a vintage tractor into the fields to see the everyday way of life and crops currently being grown. Back to the farm, we were served a homemade vegetarian lunch (yes more curry). All the ingredients, except the spices were from local farms. By late afternoon we had to leave for the drive to our final and eagerly anticipated experience in Amritsar. The flag lowering ceremony at the Wagah border between India and Pakistan. It’s a daily, hour-long “beating retreat” performed by India’s Border Security Force (BSF) and Pakistan’s Pakistan Rangers. Soldiers from both sides perform synchronised drills, high kicks and marching. The crowds on both sides of the fence are encouraged to cheer for their own soldiers and wave their national flags, creating a lively, competitive atmosphere. The ceremony ends with both flags being lowered at sunset. With that our Amritsar adventure was over, the next day we headed back to Dehli to spend our last three nights in India.
On arriving in Jaipur we appeared to be heading down some dubious streets behind a chaotic bus station, towards our hotel. At this point we thought we’d be looking for another place to stay. Then out of nowhere, a beautiful property appeared, it was our hotel. Thank goodness. We checked in and was taken to our room, it was absolutely beautiful. After a decent nights sleep, we were picked up for our day in Jaipur, known as the Pink City. What we hadn’t realised or planned when we booked the tour, was that it coincided with Diwali. Good to witness however the crowds and traffic were off the scale of craziness. We met our guide for the day, MJ and then taken to a viewing point to see the Amber Fort from across the river. Next up we drove up a famous spot, used in a lot of Bollywood movies, Panna Meena ka Kund, then on to the fort & palace. Our eyes didn’t know what to focus on! So much to see. We drove back down towards the city and stopped off quickly to see the water palace. The king has kept this palace private, so it can only be observed from the outside. When we arrived at the City Palace, the king was in residence. We didn’t see him but his white Maserati was parked in the courtyard. MJ asked if we would be comfortable walking through a local market to see all the Diwali decorations for sale, we had to negotiate about eight lanes of traffic to get there. Due to it being a festival, the city allows stalls/traders to set up on the pavements outside the shops for free, most of these stall owners are from the outlying rural villages. After negotiating the traffic again, we went to see the Hawa Mahl palace (also known as the Palace of Winds) an absolutely stunning building constructed from pink and red sandstone. It has many small windows and balconies that give it a look of honeycomb. Royal females used this building to observe life in the street below. Back to the car we were then taken to see a block printing demo, now as expected they had an shop selling carpets, fabric and made to measure clothing. We made it clear we couldn’t buy anything, however G decided to get himself a made to measure shirt. Selected the fabric, got measured and the shirt was delivered that evening to the hotel, all for the price of £20.
The next morning we checked out of the hotel to head onwards towards Agra, our final destination on the Golden Triangle. Another marathon drive of four and a half hours. As Ankit lives in Agra and it was Diwali, we said we would be happy to be dropped straight to our hotel, so he could clock off early and spend some extra time with his family. What we didn’t bank on was being invited to his home to witness the prayers, fireworks and food. We were picked up from the hotel and driven to his house, where he lives with his wife, two children and his mum and sister.
We watched the Puja – the offering of light, flowers, water and food to the divine. Bringing light to overcome the darkness. Next was time for the fireworks, that his little girl Cuckoo (that’s her nickname) has chosen herself. Then the food was served to us and kept on coming. We enjoyed a meal cooked by Ankit’s wife and Mum, including rice, two types of paneer, curd, naan bread, potato poppadoms, with a sweet fried dumpling to finish the meal.
We met Lucky, our guide for the Taj Mahal and the fort in Agra, then off we went. As we’ve been to so many now, we love a good World Heritage Site! The Taj has to be our best one so far. An ivory/white mausoleum on the bank of the river Yamuna. It was commissioned in 1631 by the fifth emperor to house the tomb of his wife. It became more popular with tourists after The Princess of Wales visited in 1992. Next stop Agra Fort, Lucky went to sort out the tickets and M was stopped by people wanting selfies with her. The fort is another world heritage site and is actually a walled city, completed in 1573 it was the main residence for the Mughal dynasty until 1638 when the capital was moved from Agra to Dehli. All too soon it was time to say goodbye to Lucky and we set off for our final destination of the day, Fatehpur Sikri around 22 miles from Agra and was founded as the capital of the Mughal empire in 1571.
We arrived at Fatehpur Sikri and met our guide, we affectionately gave him the nickname “The Dr” (he is actually a Doctor) a local who is absolutely passionate about the fort and it’s history, he’s also a massive cricket fan. He was a mine of information, good at photography and didn’t stand any nonsense from the other tourists that got in his way. One family were allowing their kids to run riot and he had a word and another group were sitting on a fence which has clear signage to keep your distance. He did not like people disrespecting the place. We enjoyed his company for around two hours before ending the tour and heading back after a long/hot day. Part One now completed!
After a slightly delayed uneventful overnight flight, we landed in Delhi around 8am. Getting through the airport was interesting with a three step process! Biometric data collected at automatic machines after getting in the terminal, manually filling in an arrival card and finally facing the immigration team. We were admitted! Luggage collected, cash from the machine, we then got a taxi to the hotel. Two hour wait before we were allowed a room and even then we had to pay for an early check in. Being absolutely shattered from hardly any sleep, we paid up and found our room. Fell straight into bed for a couple of hours sleep. Woke up feeling slightly more refreshed, so went for a beer and something to eat in the hotel. Both in bed and asleep by 9.30pm, we wanted a good nights sleep as the next six days were going to be full on.
Dehli – we met our driver Ankit, who is going to be driving us for the six day “Golden Triangle” tour. Set off to Delhi for our first day. The journey was around 13 miles and took over an hour and a half. Traffic was absolutely mental and we would stand no chance of navigating or driving it ourselves. Arrived safely and met our tour guide for the day, Talib. What an introduction to India & Delhi which included;
✅ Old Delhi with Tuk Tuk Ride
✅ Cup of Tea
✅ Chandni Chowk
✅ Jama Masjid Mosque
✅ Humayan’s Tomb
✅ Gurdwara Bangla Sahib Temple
✅ India Gate
Unfortunately no photos were allowed at the temple but it was our favourite place in Delhi. Photo’s were allowed in the dining hall & kitchens – they cook/provide 10,000 free meals a day – run by volunteers. We made a small donation (under no pressure to do so) and Talib said that would provide 20 meals! Had a delicious lunch at a recommended restaurant and left full to bursting. Final stop was India Gate, however we were unable to cross the road to it as an event was being set up for Diwali on Monday, we had to look from afar. Back through the traffic with a few interesting diversions, traffic jams and monkey spotting. Early night as we had a five hour drive to Jaipur tomorrow.
On the way to Jaipur to break up the journey, stopped at an Elephant Village. We were in two minds about this, however it all seemed to be above board and in conjunction with the government. We paid (probably a little too much) to spend about half and hour with an elephant named Rose. The keepers (who looked about 12) spent all their time preparing sugar cane for us to feed to her and taking our photos. Still on the fence about if we should have visited, however we refused to do anything more than pet her and take photo’s. Next up was a big definite YES from G, a trip to the Galtaji Temple (Monkey Temple) It probably won’t surprise you that we met “Monkey Man” there. Vijay Kumar Sharma, has looked after the monkey’s of Jaipur for over 20 years. What a character. The minute he started walking towards the temple, the monkeys appeared. We spent around 40 minutes there, he insisted on doing a mini photo shoot of us and after every photo he showed us. Lovely man though and he was fluent in English and funny too. We had the Macaques monkey with us for the whole tour, feeding them and them sitting on us! M wasn’t so keen, you can see her reaction in some of the photo’s.
Just preparing the final bits for “part two”. Now organising this trip has been slightly more complex than the first. We opted to use a travel agent to book our flights, as the trip involved multiple flights to 11 countries – total flights booked so far is 20. No way would we have been able to do it. It’s been difficult enough organising visa’s, car hire, hotels and activities. The hardest challenges have been how to pack “lightly” and obtaining India visas. For the first time in our lives we have been really sensible with packing and both of our pull along holdalls are around 17 kgs. Amazing as the holdalls weigh 2.8 kgs. In addition we have hand luggage, at a sensible 7 kgs though. First stop India – Dehli, Jaipur, Agra, Varanasi and Amritsar. It’s going to be a hot and hectic 16 days.
For over eleven years, we’ve talked about visiting Istanbul! We’d noticed earlier in the year that Easyjet had started to fly there from Bristol. That was it, we booked flights almost straightaway. The four night/five day trip was being wedged in between “The Little Trip” – six months driving around Europe & “The Big Trip – six months of long haul travel.
We opted to stay in the Beyoğlu district on the European side, M had stayed in this area previously on a work trip. A great place to sleep, shop, eat & drink.
The original to see list had on it the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Galata Tower, Grand Bazaar & possibly a trip to the Asian side of Istanbul. We meant business on this trip, we’d bought a guide book & combed through Atlas Obscura for other bits “not to miss”
In five days we walked just under 50 miles!
Hagia Sophia – over 1,500 years of turbulent history.
Byzantine Period – 537–1453 Cathedral
Ottoman Period – 1453–1935 Mosque
Republic of Turkey – 1935 – 2020 Museum
Modern Turkey – 2020 – Present Day Mosque
Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) – Located in the Sultanahmet district & directly across from the Hagia Sophia. Built between 1609-1616. Commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I, who wanted to build a grand mosque to rival Hagia Sophia. Nicknamed the “Blue Mosque” due to over 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles inside, many of which are in shades of blue.
Notable features of the mosque include;
6 minarets (at the time most mosques had 1–4)
A large central dome flanked by 8 smaller domes
Stained glass windows, intricate calligraphy, and geometric patterns
Grand Bazaar – One of the oldest and largest Covered Markets in the world, it dates back to 1455, it has 60+ streets and over 4,000 shops. Rebuilt multiple times after fires and earthquakes, the current structure dates back to the 18th/19th century. It’s one of the largest gold markets in the world, with hundreds of jewellery shops.
One of the attractions not on our original list was the Basilica Cistern, it’s an ancient underground water reservoir in the city, built in the 6th century under Byzantine emperor Justinian I. It could hold up to 80,000 cubic metres of water. There are 336 marble/granite columns. It was intended to provide water for the Great Palace of Constantinople and other buildings in the surrounding area!
Made it to Asia! Found a ferry just down the hill from the hotel, a short twenty five minute sail across the Bosphorus and we were in Kadıköy. Spent a few hours exploring the town and found that it was much quieter than the European side, with less tourists and sightseeing opportunities. The town has a nice mix of shops, cafes and bars, cheaper prices with less hussle & bustle than the “other side”. As we crossed the Bosphorus strait there looked to be other interesting things, so the next day we took a two hour cruise. We cruised along the European side before crossing over and cruising back up the coastline on the Asian side. An absolute bargain at £5.50 each.
We saw so much more than expected, visited several other mosques, found Greek Orthodox and catholic churches, the hotel where Agatha Christie was alleged to have written Murder on The Orient Express, small passages crammed with stalls selling “genuine fakes”, Tunel, an underground funicular railway which is the second oldest in the world after the London Underground and finally a cat museum. Our room in the hotel had a great view of the Galata Tower, so we chose not to climb up to the top (it was about £30 each) The roof terrace also had fantastic views.
All too soon we were on our way home. Time to get the washing done, some jobs in the house & garden and prepare for the “Big One” in twelve days.
We left the site feeling blue that our long talked about/planned European Adventure was over. On the way to the port, we stopped at the wine shop to buy some supplies to console us for the next few weeks, then next stop Roscoff. All smooth until we got to the immigration booth, part of the visa process was to take fingerprints, so G’s were taken, matched & he was accounted for . M’s couldn’t be read, after 5 attempts he asked if she had returned with G in June to the UK. The answer was no, so he let us through. Pretty uneventful 6 hour sail back across the channel, our friends came to wave at us (we couldn’t see them) as we arrived in Plymouth on time & back in the house an hour later. Now to get planning the next adventure!
Days Away – 177 Countries Visited – 9 Miles Driven – 6,419 Further Point from Home – Berchtesgaden, Germany
Scared of missing something, we did another short hop to La Faou. Once a large port in the bay of Brest, La Faou is another Petite Cites de Caractere! On the main street there are 16th century half-timbered & gabled houses. The Saint Sauveur church sits on the Steir Goz Ria, the old river.
Plouzane/Pointe Saint Mathieu
With no fixed abode for our next three nights we headed beyond the city of Brest towards Pointe Saint Mathieu, via a stop in Plouzane to see the lighthouse “Le Phare du Petit Minou” along with the fort which protected the waterway to Brest. By the time we arrived (satnav kindly sent us right through the city of Brest) the weather had improved. Walked around the headland to the fort & lighthouse, it was well worth the stop. We had lunch in the Ranch overlooking the sea before moving on to Pointe Saint Mathieu. What a stunning place. The lighthouse built in 1835 is next to the ruins of the 12th century abbey. Fortunately on the day we were there, we were able to walk up to the top. Only 163 steps, but a great view over the coastline & a birds eye view of the abbey.
Le Conquet/Plougonvelin
Plan A was to stay at Le Conquet overnight, however the parking had challenges! We’d need to seek out a blue parking disc, so that we didn’t have to leave by 9am. It seemed too challenging, so we headed there for a couple of hours in the afternoon. Apart from a small cluster of Islands Le Conquet is on the westernmost point of Brittany. A beautiful fishing port founded by Monks. The boats to visit the islands of Molene & Ushant, depart from here too. Due to the changeable weather we didn’t stay too long, however most definitely on the list to return. The islands are also on the list.
Managed to find an overnight stop at Plougonvelin, overlooking the coast & a short walk away from a beautiful beach for just £8.94 with electricity!
Sibiril
So now we were down to just four nights left of our European adventure. We had two booked in Saint Pol De Leon, so we were heading back toward Roscoff for the ferry home. As usual we were being umming & ahhing to make a decision, so we looked on the map & filtered out campsites without swimming pools. It left one in the area, so that was it! However on the way we visited the other two lighthouses on the peninsula. Kermorvan close to Le Conquet then on to Trezien further up the coast. Trezien is located inland about a half a mile from the coast, so we were able to take a photo of the Ranch next to it. Unfortunately as we were into September they only open at the weekends, so unable to visit them. After leaving Plouarzel we then headed north, this time skirting around Brest & up to Sibiril. We arrived shortly after 2pm & luckily managed to get a pitch for two nights. What a beautiful view from the pitch, overlooking the port of Mogueriec. The following day we cycled around the inlet & through crop fields of cabbages, Roscoff onions & recently harvested sunflower fields (which had been filled with pumpkins – we now know is called crop covering – to add nutrients back to the soil for the following year).
Saint Pol De Leon
For 14 years we have wanted to visit SPDL! We drove past the massive tower of the church back in 2011 for the first time & vowed to visit. What we didn’t know was the tower we had seen wasn’t on the cathedral but on the Notre-Dame du Kreisker chapel. Unfortunately on the day we visited the tower wasn’t open. A good excuse to return, when passing through next time. We found out that the cathedral has the Les Étagères de la Nuit (Shelves of the Night) – a collection of 31 boxed skulls dating from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Each box contains one human skull – read more here https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/les-etageres-de-la-nuit-shelves-of-the-night
For only the second time this trip, we needed to use the levelling ramps, we probably could have coped with the slight wonk, but the fridge was playing up so we wanted to ensure we were as level as possible. Another beautifully positioned site, overlooking the Bay of Morlaix. We were able to spend a few hours in the afternoon by the outdoor pool before rain stopped play. Weather had deteriorated again on our final day, fortunately the site also had an indoor pool with jacuzzi & loungers, so headed there to escape the van & dreary weather. By early evening the rain had passed, so we took a walk down to the beach & Isle of Sainte-Anne. Due to fridge problems & having to get rid of the contents, along with running down what we had in the cupboards, our dinner consisted of a tin of rice pudding we had brought with us from home. It saved the day. We would have eaten out, but the bar/restaurant on site was closed, along with the restaurants along the coast. We could have walked up to SPDL, but it was a 30 minute uphill walk!
Benodet – Another short hop around the coast. The beaches here were (in our opinion) nicer than Concarneau. As per our recent luck, we did not have the opportunity to use them. Rain stopped play AGAIN. A lighthouse fix at long last! Two in Benodet & one across the estuary. The boardwalk was lovely along the main beach with a few nice restaurants. Alongside the beach are beach cabins, however they looked utilitarian rather than “pretty”. Walked all the way up to the port before heading back through the town however the clouds were forming overhead so headed back before we got drenched. The next day we had planned to cycle around the coast to Fouesnant, this was a sixteen mile round trip, but we were ready. Set off in eager anticipation, however within thirty minutes we were absolutely soaked after the rain caught us out. With still five miles to go, then the eight back we cut our losses & cycled back. When we got back to the van, we realised that we had gone out without cash or cards! Imagine if we had ordered food/drink with no means to pay. Later in the day, it cleared a little, so we walked along the beach, up to the marina & back through the town. Enjoyed our stay but would have been much better if we’d had sun rather than rain.
Pont L’Abbe
The first inland stay for a while! We hadn’t researched the place but it was in a good position for a stopover. We made a quick stop off in Loctudy in the morning as it had been on the “shortlist” to visit, had a wander round the coast, found a beachside caravan selling crepes & cider, fuelled up then drove over to Pont L’ Abbe. A good choice! Lots of independents shops, riverside walks, flowers everywhere. The church has a beautiful “Rose” stained glass window. Over the other side of the river was a 13th century church that was destroyed by the red bonnets back in the 16th century. The local commune are trying to get the church roof reinstalled, with lots of red tape & bureaucracy, it’s going to be a while. Across the river is one of a few inhabited bridges in France. Unfortunately the chateau had recently closed for renovations & was covered in scaffolding.
Locronan Via Quimper
Next up, Locronan another inland destination. On the way we dropped in to Quimper for a quick look as we were passing by, had we not it would have been on the regret list. Parked in an incredibly tight parking spot & due to the timings we ended up paying 40 cents for two hours parking. Picked up a “pavement picnic” from the boulangerie then took a wander. Nice compact city, with stunning architecture, a massive square filled with bars/restaurants & the cathedral looming over it. However by this time it has started to rain, so we headed back towards the Ranch. We has satisfied our itch for Quimper. Onwards to Locronan which was a short drive. Two reasons for choosing, 1st – it was on our route & 2nd it is a Petite Cites de Caractere – our fave! By now the sun was shining, so we wasted no time getting out to explore. Again another stunning picture postcard place. We then spotted directions to a chapel & viewing point on the top of “the mountain” so off we went. Great big views over the coastline towards Douarnenez & Crozon beyond. That kept us busy for a couple of hours & increased our step count for the day. On the way back down, we spotted an artisan ice cream shop. All the ingredients are grown on their farm locally. G opted for a rhubarb sorbet & M chose a white cheese with red fruits. Absolutely delicious. We were eating dinner a little later onat the Ranch, when a man knocked on the door. He was selling the juiciest looking organic strawberries, so we bought a punnet & enjoyed them doused in sugar, we didn’t have any clotted cream with us.
Quimper
Locronan
Crozon
It rained & rained & rained, we put on our raincoats & wandered in to the small town of Crozon. We had unfortunately chosen the wrong location for our overnight, as it was over a 40 minute walk to the beach/coast. As the rain had eased off we went for it! Halfway there we got a good old drenching & by the time we had reached the coast there was almost zero visibility & nothing there! We walked back up the long hill back to the Ranch. The weather wasn’t kind & Crozon didn’t hit the spot for us.
The next day with improved weather, we headed back down in the Ranch & drove along the coast towards Morgat (which is a part of Crozon) Now that was more like it & we should have stayed there. Lovely harbour, we spent an hour wandering around, pit stop for a coffee & a crepe whilst enjoying the sun & people watching. We’d spotted a sign for the Cap de la Chèvre, so drove down there. The headland was a mass of colour with the granite rocks & heather, we took a short walk along the GR 34 to admire some of the big views. Next stop Camaret-Sur-Mer
Camaret-Sur-Mer
Arrived mid afternoon & weather was turning cloudy again, so instead of rushing out to explore we did the boring & mundane washing. G watched the football & M updated the website. We’d sit it out until the morning & hopefully improved weather.
Now this was more like it! Camaret-sur Mer – the place that kept on giving! The harbour has the Chapelle Notre Dame de Rocamadour, simply decorated with a nautical theme. 17th century altar is still in the church after being replaced, it was restored in the 90’s. Just along from the harbour is the Tour Vauban, (UNESCO world heritage site) built at the end of the 17th century, it’s part of a coastal battery defence system to protect the port of Brest. Unfortunately it was undergoing renovations, so we were unable to visit. Another striking feature of the harbour is the “Ship Cemetery” a striking collection of abandoned & decaying fishing boats that have been left to water by the sea. The town was pretty small & quiet apart from the seafront that had lots of restaurants & bars. There are a lot of artists in the town & their studios are built around an area known as St Ives Square. We then found ourselves on the GR34 coastal footpath to head round to the Pointe du Fouliguet. Everyway you looked there were stunning views. We reached the dunes before the pointe & it started to rain. Fortunately the site was only a 5 five minute walk away, so we headed back to shelter from the rain. An hour later the rain had passed so we headed back towards the pointe, however we couldn’t get near the lighthouse as it’s behind the wall of the military property there. Back down towards the beach of Pen Hat & the clouds were starting to form overhead. We headed back over the dunes, taking a stop at a derelict manor house with a sad story – https://www.glauqueland.com/saintpolroux/ – You’ll need to translate from the webpage. On the way back down the hill we then found the Menhirs of Lagatjar, the ancient stones have a astronomical character connected to the constellation of Pleiades. We were rewarded with a really low rainbow over the sea. A perfect end to our C-S-M adventure.
Before leaving the next day, we drove up to the Pen-Hir headland to see the rocks known as “stack of peas” Massive views again from up there & we could see the headland we had visited the day before one way & the headland we planned to visit the following day in the other direction
We had too many places on the list in Normandy & not enough time, so made the decision to spend our remaining three weeks in Brittany, heading down to the South coast to explore the from Carnac through to our final destination of Roscoff for the ferry home on the 8th of September.
After leaving Lion-sur-Mer our destination was Carnac, however we stopped at the halfway point, Josselin for an overnighter. Josselin is in the Morbihan region of Brittany & is another of our favourite “Petite Cite de Caractere” – we’ve found out that you can’t go wrong if you head to a village with this title or several other tourism titles! You’ll always find a campsite/aire, tourist information office, photogenic views & a bar! Located on the river Oust, with a stunning Gothic castle, compact town centre & church, it made a perfect overnight stop.
Carnac – Another random choice! In Carnac there are over 3,000 megalithic stones which are older than Stonehenge (and can be seen from space) Suggestions that they were used to track time (alignment of the sun/moon) or maybe religious functions. Fortunately some of the stones were within walking distance of the site, so we had a wander out to find them after getting set up. The next day, bikes out & off we went to find the Chappelle St Michel before heading off to St Columban then back to Carnac via the coast road. As expected, it was a beautiful ride with big views. Stopped off in the town for a mooch around & a pitstop at the local bar. Even had enough time to spend a couple of hours by the pool. Satisfaction achieved.
Gavres – Now this was a planned stop, which we were having second thoughts about. We’d decided on a couple of beach days, but the weather wasn’t looking great. Slightly nervous about 2 nights on an exposed peninsula by the beach with stormy weather. But we went for it! First off we found the ferry that went across the inlet to Port Louis, that was our day two plan sorted. Onwards we walked around the coast path that took round the peninsula from one side to the other. As per, massive great views of beaches, the coastline & hidden bays. It reminded us of Cornwall. Out of the blue we found a Chi Chi (same as Churros) kiosk & bought six covered in sugar with a pot of caramel to dip them in! Perfect. As expected the next day was overcast with drizzle, but as planned we headed over to Port Louis. Walked around the citadel/city walls & checked out the beaches. From there we could see the German U-Boat pens from the second world war. We’d already decided to bypass Lorient & nothing we saw made us change our mind. On impulse we went to a local pizzeria for lunch, G chose one with a local sausage! Big mistake & when we talk about it we can still smell it. Google provided us with the contents, which weren’t pleasant. Going forward, no more local sausage!
Le Pouldu – Moving on from the Morbihan department of Brittany, we crossed into Finistere. Le Pouldu is a beach resort close to Clohars Carnoet. The coast path reminded us both of the Lizard Peninsula in Cornwall, we’ve now taken to likening every place we visit to it’s Cornish twin. We randomly found a person stood on the coast path playing a set of bagpipes. Walked along the path to the next beach before heading back. Next to the site is a chapel that “moved location” back in 1956. It was dismantled in it’s original location & rebuilt in the new! The next day we decided to walk the coast path – the GR34 – in the opposite direction towards the estuary. We eventually reached Le Poldu Port, so had a quick drink before turning round. The clouds were gathering. Too breezy to go to the beach, as we had hoped but sat out in the sun & planned some of the next trip.
Concarneau – Looking forward to this stop as we had planned 3 nights here! But first we had to go shopping, not only for food but for a replacement cap for the toilet cassette. M kicked it down the drain when emptying it! No luck at the motorhome dealer but we found a stop gap that will get us through the rest of the trip in a DIY shop. Arrived on site & first impressions were really good. Walking distance of the beach & with a swimming pool/terrace/bar & restaurant (also found out later that our friends had stayed here back in June & the showers were wonderful). Unfortunately the pitch was on a slope, so for the first time this trip we had to haul out the levelling ramps to ensure we weren’t on the wonk. Concarneau was developed from an old fortified town, with the ramparts dating back to the 13th century, then remodelled in the 17th century. Inside the Ville Close are lots of narrow streets with shops, bars & restaurants. M decided to buy a raincoat as the forecast for the next week, wasn’t looking great. We were able to relax a bit & spent a couple of afternoons just by the pool snoozing & reading. Ready for the next round of sightseeing, when back on the road.
On our short road trip last year, we visited Sainte-Mere-Eglise, the two American landing beaches – Utah & Omaha & the American cemetery. Unfortunately we ran out of time, so vowed to go back on this trip to visit the three British/Canadian/French landing beaches Gold, Juno & Sword.
We headed to the coast at Arromanches-les-Bains, G visited the museum detailing the story of the Mulberry Harbours built just of the coast to build a temporary harbour & supply base to unload the troops & store the equipment. Interesting museum but very busy. The remain of the harbour can be seen especially at low tide. Arromanches is geared up for the tourist with lots of shops selling military souvenirs & the usual seaside tat. A short drive down the coast is Ver-sur-Mer where the British Normandy Memorial is located. The memorial details the names of the 22,442 service personnel who lost their lives on D-Day & the Battle of Normandy. Located on hillside over looking Gold beach. When viewed from above the memorial creates an outline of a Union Jack flag. We were fortunate that the Standing With Giants display, initially installed for the 80th D-Day anniversary last year, was back in situ for this year. 1,475 silhouettes, representing the number of fatalities under British command on 6th June 1944. A very moving sight.
Moving down the coast the next stop was Courseulles-sur-Mer, the home of Juno beach. We walked a little distance on the beach before stopping to look at the 18 metre Cross of Lorraine, which was erected to commemorate General de Gaulle’s return to France in June 1944. Just a short drive round the corner we were in Bernieres-sur -Mer where parts of the Atlantic wall are still visible and there is a memorial to the 1st Canadian Army that landed there.
With only one beach left to visit, we opted to stay for a couple of nights at Lion-sur -Mer, located on Sword beach. From here we were able to cycle all the way to Pegasus Bridge along the coastal cycle path. Opted to visit the memorial/museum dedicated to the brave men of the second airborne battalion that landed in gliders to hold the bridge until reinforcements arrived. All in all a very thought provoking & moving few days.
On our journey to Honfleur we experienced the first “Peage a Flux Libra” – free flow toll roads, no booths, no tickets & no payment machines. You have to log on to their website to find out how much you owe & pay it within 72 hours – or else! We set an alarm for the following day, as the details can take 24 hours to register. Our overnight spot was in a suburb of Honfleur, which was a 2 mile walk to get there, fortunately an easy walk! The CCP wasn’t the best as it was under a motorway bridge. The alternative would have been the aire in Honfleur, which looked rammed with vehicles. We chose Honfleur as G had been here years ago & wanted to revisit. Now we love a good browse & nose in the shops, but it really was tat central. Really hot & busy too. We walked down to the outer harbour to look at the Port de Normandie & Le Havre beyond, which looked particularly ugly & industrial looking. Feeling slightly deflated by our day, we wandered back, both saying that we were glad we’d only booked 1 night there.
Up early & on the road as we were hoping to stay at an aire in Bayeux, as we’ve found out that the Europeans like getting up & on the road early. No problem! We arrived & there were a lot of free spaces, the parking was free during the day & only 5.50 Euro’s from 6pm until 8am. No services apart from bins/recycling. First up the tapestry museum, however when we got there the queue was about an hour & a half to get in. We waited & eventually got in. It was packed, the queue to view the tapestry moved slowly, so the audio guide was out of alignment to the place on the tapestry. It was great to see it though, we missed it last year & vowed to come back. No photo’s allowed in the museum. We purchased a dual ticket that also gave us entry to the Battle of Normandy museum too, so that was on the list for the afternoon. We wrongly assumed that Bayeux wouldn’t be worth seeing. It was. We had a great day, the architecture on the cathedral was jaw dropping, it looked like a film set! So the rest of the day went like this, found a patisserie for a pavement picnic. However our eclairs were boxed up to take away, very posh! We then walked around the cathedral & discovered that there was a sound & light show that evening. So that was straight on our list! A late night for us. Walked over to the museum & spent a couple of hours in there. Across the road from the museum was the war cemetery with 4,648 graves. G found the cemetery log & wrote a note in there (as he always does) & we found the graves with extra information plaques. Detailing the lives/families of those buried in the plot. In this cemetery there were only 7 of them. As we we were going out that evening, we popped back for a siesta & food. The light show was billed to start at Nightfall & we had to google what that meant! Apparently it is usually 20 minutes after the sunset, so by our reckoning it should have started around 21.45. Found a bar that sold draught Guinness, so sat & enjoyed a drink whilst people watching. That said it was 18 Euros for the pint & a glass of wine. Sound & light show didn’t start until gone 22.00, it was lovely though. Lots of primary colour moving projections on to the cathedral. Tired out we wandered back. Bayeux certainly lifted our spirits & glad we decided to visit.
After spending a lovely week with our friend Sue, getting doggy cuddles, eating too much cheese & sleeping in a proper bed we were on the road again. We had booked the CCP close to Honfleur , so had 3 nights to plan. Le Mans was discussed but decided against it (not sure why) We wanted to cover off 1/4 of the journey, we found Sainte Suzanne as it has the title of (one of many) The Most Beautiful Villages of France. A medieval village with a castle, ramparts, narrow cobbled streets & 12th century Romanesque church. Apparently it’s the only “City” to have resisted William the Conqueror. It’s pretty compact, so we were able to whizz around it in a few hours. Not content with just sitting around, we found out that there was a megalith tomb dating back to BC 3975! Instead of doing the sensible thing & getting the bikes out, we walked the 4 mile round trip! The weather for the next few days was going to be hot & sunny, so we made our next stop a two nighter. Fortunately we found another “Beautiful Village” stop at Le Bec-Hellouin. We chose to stay at a campsite with a pool. The abbey was founded in 1034 & 2 of the abbots went on to become Archbishops of Canterbury. The half timbered houses were decked with flowers & it was a beautiful place. Again, as it was so small, we were able to see everything in a few hours. The next day was a scorcher, so we took advantage of the pool & had a quiet day in preparation for our arrival in Honfleur the following day.
Due to our extended stay on the Ile de Re, we had just two days/nights to fill before we were due at our friend Sue’s for a 7 nights. After all this time, we almost got it off to perfection now. Look at the map/route then google beautiful villages in the area. So our first stop was the small village of Damvix, which is on the river Sevre -Niortaise. During the summer it holds a scarecrow festival, they were in situ however with other 40 on the trail, we decided to take in the ones on our route. We walked for a couple of miles down the river, passing sunflower fields where the flowers were starting to droop, awaiting to be harvested for their seeds. It was a peaceful place to rest/reset our batteries after the hectic days before.
The next morning we only had a 45 minute drive to our next destination Vouvant, a medieval walled city. A small place with a lot going on. We got the key to the Tour Melamine from the tourist information & climbed to the top for the 360 view over the surrounding landscape. We had a run in with an owl & after being held hostage for a short while by it, we made our way to the local creperie to recover. Next up was the church, the exterior is absolutely exquisite with it’s gothic stone carvings. The exterior of the church was undergoing renovations, but it has stood at this location since the 11th century. We took a walk down the river as we had found out that there was a replica of the Lourdes grotto by the side of the river, it was build back in 1958 to celebrate the 100 years anniversary of the apparitions. We went out after dark! Found out that there was a sound & light projection on the portal of the church at 10.35 (precise) so took a walk down to watch it. For such a small place the show was amazing.
Apres Les Heures
Next stop L’Absie just 25 minutes away to spend the week with our long term friend Sue, who we both met 26 years ago when we all worked for B&Q.
Great ferry trip across the estuary, as per usual, we had to do a dreaded grocery shop to ensure we had enough supplies for our three day stay on the Ile de Re. Once done, we were off. We weren’t sure about the campsite we had booked, we had left it late & most of the sites recommended to us were fully booked. However we had a pitch & we’d always make the most of it, we’d just spent three nights in what are essentially carparks with water, drainage, WC emptying & electric. We went to reception to check in, gave the details to the receptionist who couldn’t find us. Luckily we had the booking confirmation. Unfortunately what we hadn’t noticed was that we were a day early! First time this trip, we had messed up a booking. Panic now beginning to set in, as they were fully booked & had no space for us. Fortunately they had a “sister site” on the opposite side of the road, a two minute drive away. The receptionist called them & they had a pitch, Good News. Bad News was it was a premium pitch at 95.25 Euros!!! We took it & would move back to the original campsite the next day. So what did we get for the extra 45 Euros? An ensuite bathroom, fridge & washing up sink. It was nicely done but a fair chunk of money. The next morning we headed back to Antioche for the next three nights. Despite our reservations, the site was absolutely fine & perfectly located to cycle to both La Flotte & St Martin en Re. By this stage we had decided to book another night further up on the island, so we could visit the third town of Ars en Re & the lighthouse at Saint-Clément-des-Baleines. We were delighted we found the famous island donkey’s, their coats resembling dreadlocks. What should have been a three night stay, turned into five nights & we thoroughly enjoyed every minute, with miles of safe cycle paths to get around the island & photo opportunities galore, it all turned out fine in the end.
We didn’t have anything planned after our Biarritz stop, so we had to come up with a three night plan to take us to our next booking on the Ile de Re. Initial thoughts were to head up to Bordeaux & around to La Rochelle then over the bridge to the Ile. We looked at the map & decided to head up the west coast, through the Gironde then take the ferry from Port Medoc to Royan. No campsites were being booked, we were going to do back to back Camping Car Parks. We would shower in the van & see how we got on. As some of the CCP’s are in popular places, we opted to upgrade our membership a couple of months ago, that would allow us to book in advance the sought after locations. It’s been well worth the £25 fee.
Night One – Messanges with five kilometres of sand & nothing else it was perfect for a lazy day on the beach. Just watching the world go by & listening to the waves crashing for a few hours & to recharge our batteries. CCP looked a bit like a shanty town with vans crammed in, but it grew on us & was quiet overnight.
Night Two – Ares via The Dunes of Pilat – We had stumbled across the fact that the largest sand dune in Europe was a short diversion from our next destination! That was it, off we diverted. When we left Messanges it was dull & overcast, by the time we arrived at the dune, it had brightened up. The dune is 10 metres high & 500 metres wide with massive views of the Atlantic Ocean & Landes forest. Well worth seeing. Arrived in Ares late afternoon, parked up then went for a wander along the beach to the town. Nothing to write home about apart from a large wooden Eiffel Tower in the garden of a Brocante! The CCP was perfectly fine, £11 for the night.
Night Three – Port Medoc via Soulac sur Mer – Not sure why but really wanted to stop off in Soulac, knew nothing about the place but it sounded nice. We were right, free parking a short distance from the town with a flat level walk along the seafront. A compact town with lots of interesting shops & restaurants. We decided to have lunch to avoid cooking that evening. Pretty standard menu, so opted for a burger & fries. Fuelled up we then left for the ten minute journey to Port Medoc for the night. Got a front row pitch, overlooking the marina. We got the bikes out & decided to go for a look around. What looked like a quiet location, had a lot going for it & we were disappointed that we could only stay the one night. On reflection we both wished we’d spent longer in the whole area from Biarritz up. It is definitely on the return list, G especially loved the “textile free” beach!
The next morning we were on the 11am ferry across the estuary to Royan, for the onward journey to the Ile de Re.
After seven nights in Carcassonne, the adventure restarted. Destination Lourdes, via a pitstop in Mirepoix. On the map, the journeys look straightforward but it isn’t always the case. We parked in the aire at Mirepoix for free. Another one of the most beautiful villages in France, you can see why. With the medieval buildings built around the town square, it was a treat to see. After a quick stop for lunch, we set off for Lourdes. Once again what looked like a straightforward “hop” was nearly a three hour drive. Lourdes had been on/off our list, definitely off then after speaking to a family member who went recently, we put it back. Both of us remember back to the 1970’s when it was in the news for pilgrimages & the healing water, we had to go! We had planned two nights there, so we didn’t have to rush.
Lourdes
We headed out mid morning to walk down to the town & the sanctuary, as we were approaching we heard lots of commotion over a loud speaker & assumed it was a rally of some sort. As we got closer, it clicked that the Tour de France was due to come through within the next hour. We were on the wrong side of the street & couldn’t get across, so we went & bought a pavement picnic & waited for the riders to pass. Once again though we had missed the “freebies” as the caravan had long gone. It was good to see the race again & much less chaotic than in Toulouse. We walked down towards the main town & were greeted with shops stocked from floor to ceiling with every religious artifact you can imagine. Some of the shops had baskets so you could stock up on anything & everything. Once beyond the commercialism, we went to the basilica, the grotto & the underground basilica. Everything was on a grand scale & well worth experiencing. The underground basilica was “odd” a cross between an Ikea carpark & a nuclear bunker. We both agreed & cut our visit short. Not many people were in there compared to the other basilica & grotto, so wonder if it’s common knowledge or people avoided it. We also headed back in the evening to watch the Marian torchlit procession, which has been held since 1863. The pilgrims walk up the esplanade & then back down to the Rosary basilica whilst reading’s are read out by the pilgrims & hymns are sung. It really was a great experience to witness it, a spiritual place amongst the crazy tackiness of the town centre shops. Weirdly enjoyable.
Salies de Bearn
Next stop Salies de Bearn, for a quiet one night stop to get us halfway to Biarritz. It was a randomly selected location by almost sticking a pin in the map. Wall to wall with 17th & 18th century houses, it is incredibly attractive! Lots of small streets to get lost in & whilst walking down one of those streets, we stumbled upon a group of “Circle Singers”the Houla Oups & watched for a while. The town is also know for it’s naturally occurring saline water & has a thermal baths. What a great find & a very pleasant couple of hours exploring.
Biarritz
Biarritz was another one that we were should we, shouldn’t we? Originally we were going to head there after we had been to Andorra, but changed our mind. Anyway we booked a night there as the plan was to head up towards Bordeaux, to get us in position for our pre-booked three night stay on the Ile de Re. As we arrived it was cloudy, with a sharp breeze . Massive views over towards the Spanish border/Pyrenees & we kept looking longingly at it! We need to save some places for our next trip though. We stayed near Milady beach, where we watched the sunset later in the evening. First off though, we walked along the coast to the main beaches/town. Lovely architecture, clean wide beaches & lots of good quality shops to browse. Stopped off for a beer, in the town & G opted for a Basque Beer. Really nice day & glad we came, would definitely put it on the list to return to & maybe have some beach days too. The weather went from cloudy to glorious sunshine within about 30 minutes! Along the coast was an amazing property! It looked like it was out of an Enid Blyton book. We found a local greengrocer on the way back & stocked up on some local produce & a very nice treat of strawberries (although we had nothing to go with then except sugar). A first for M, she used the shower in the van!!! Due to this revelation, a decision has been made, we are not going to stay at a site until we reach the Ile de Re!
We had decided that seeing the Bastille Day fireworks in Carcassonne was a must. We had two options, risk getting a place on the campsite the day before (we’ve fallen foul of the many bank holidays before) or booking in advance. An advance booking was for a minimum of 7 days though, a little longer than we would have liked. We booked as we can always find something to do & the site had a pool. We were allocated a massive shady pitch, which was good as the temperatures were due to rise. So the fireworks were scheduled for 10.30pm on Monday 14th of July, it had been confirmed that they would be going ahead. Several of the surrounding towns/villages had cancelled their displays due to the dry weather conditions/risk of fire. The display lasting 25 minutes was literally jaw dropping. Best fireworks we’ve ever seen. At one point we actually though the citadel was on fire as the effect was realistic. Absolutely well worth the effort & 7 night stay. In no particular order for the rest of our stay, we took a guided tour of the old town & visited the castle & ramparts. Really enjoyed it but as the temperature was edging towards 40 degrees, we spent time by the pool/van to reset/recharge our batteries for our onward adventures.
When we found out that the Tour de France was doing a Toulouse “loop”, that was it! We booked train tickets & went off for the day. We’d only flown in to the airport previously, so it was good to go & have a look in the city. The train journey was an hour, so we left mid morning. We were there in plenty of time to walk down to the route they were starting from. Found a bakery & bought ourselves a “pavement picnic” to enjoy whilst waiting for the riders to pass. We’d missed the caravan, so no freebies. Once passed we walked along the river up to the city & spent the next few hours mooching around the City. Headed back towards the finish line & enjoyed the build up to the riders returning. Well worth the visit, with the added bonus of the TDF. Opted for the fast train back, which shaved 30 minutes off the journey, but once off the train we still had a 40 minute walk back to the site, 30,912 steps clocked up.
Narbonne was the second train trip of the stay. Located just 30 minutes away from Carcassonne, it seemed like the perfect escape for an afternoon. The town was decorated with lots of colourful flowers & had a nice feel. Plenty of independent shops for a browse, various squares off the narrow streets to sit down & take a break, a market hall with food stalls & the archbishops place combined with the gothic cathedral. Enough to keep us entertained for the afternoon.
We didn’t have any “firm plans” for 6 night until we reached Carcassonne, so just decided to go where the road took us! A little random but we got to see a few places we’d never heard of & a thrilling mountain drive!
1st Stop – Belesta – At the foot of the Pyrenees – our second stay on a Camping Car Park £12 for the night with all the facilities. Only one other van & a very nice stay. Took a quick wander through the village. Perfect for an overnight stop.
2nd Stop – Lac Matemale – What we didn’t take in to account was the mountainous roads to take us back over to Matemale, a gripping white knuckle ride that took around 2 1/2 hours whilst trying to avoid a cycling event through the mountains. Once there, the journey was forgotten! A shaded Camping Car Park, next to a lake wedged between two ski resorts. Cycled up to Les Angles for a quick look around, however a storm was rolling in, so we cycled back down pretty quickly.
3rd Stop – Villefranche – de – Conflent for 2 nights – We’d passed this city on the way to Andorra & both commented that it looked interesting, so decided to go back for a couple of nights. We booked the closest site hoping to cycle the short distance, however the road was lethal for cycling. For the 1st time this trip we took “The Ranch” out for a day trip. Parked right next to the old city walls & went off to explore. We walked up to the Fort Liberia first thing & spent a couple of hours up there, a really great place to visit but the walk up & down was taxing, especially in the heat. Back down we then went for a walk along the ramparts of the city, again very enjoyable. A quick wander through the streets & shops before returning back for a refreshing cool off in the pool. Well worth coming back for.
4th Stop – Vinca – Literally a 20 mile drive down the road found us at Vinca. We’d only decided on the way to do a short hop, to have a bit of a quieter day. With a small town & a man made lake/beach, we had a quick whizz around the town. The square was filled with colourful knitted scarves hanging from the trees. On the way back we walked past the church & through the original gate to the town. The afternoon was spent on the edge of the lake, under a tree reading.
5th Stop – Homps – A longer drive today, to get ourselves closer to Carcassonne for the following day. Homps was the chosen destination, a small town on the Canal Du Midi. We stayed at another of the Camping Car Parks, again a perfect location. The only downside, it was hot & there were no pitches in the shade. We got straight out for a wander down by the canal, watching the hired boats passing by. The canal side was lovely with a few bars/restaurants. We then spent the afternoon on a nearby lake, under a tree, reading & watching the world go by. The evening the light was “golden” so took another walk along the canal to enjoy the evening sunset & sky.
Next stop Andorra via the Pyrenees. The road from Perpignan over the mountains was much better than anticipated & the brake pedal on the passenger side wasn’t needed. We opted to take the tunnel down in to Andorra, not only for speed but to avoid more winding roads. Within half an hour we were in the capital city Andorra La Vella. Pretty pleased with our pitch & set up in record time, ready for an explore. However the weather had other plans! Along came a thunderstorm that rumbled on for over 3 hours, so we stayed put & planned the rest of our stay. The city is compact but has a nice welcoming feel, without being pretentious. Wall to wall shops selling duty free, we estimated that the Leclerc supermarket in the main street had around 10 long aisles filled with every imaginable alcoholic drink. Perfume & electronic shops were also well represented. Guns, knives, stun guns & pepper spray were freely available to buy. We had explored most of the city within a few hours, but had been proactive & arranged a trip on the tourist bus for the following day. In the distance we heard the rumble of thunder, so wandered back to the site. Just in time before the rain lashed down & another 2 hour thunder storm set in. Alarm set for 8am the next day, to ensure we were at the bus stop for 9.30am. Each day the bus has a set route & the Friday itinerary was “Electricity” with a visit to the Electricity Museum & Lake Engolasters hydroelectric route! Sounds boring? It really wasn’t & electricity played a big part in the development of Andorra. As the tour was only a half day, we headed back to the city & had a meal at one of the local restaurants. It’s not happened very often on this trip, but we went out for the evening. We decided to treat ourselves to an evening at the Caldea Spa. Unfortunately not all the areas were open as it was undergoing a renovation, there was only the premium area open. However we spent 3 hours there, with plenty to keep us occupied. We made use of all the facilities, however a favourite was the “ice cabin”, only us in there! Found a switch on the wall & assumed it was a light, unfortunately for G it was an ice cold shower of water which he happened to be standing under. A good experience & memory of Andorra. The following morning we left Andorra & headed back to France to continue our onward journey.
Before setting off for Andorra we stayed for 2 nights near the coast, south of Perpignan. We booked a site with a pool as the temperatures were in the low 40’s! Location was nothing to write home about, the site was “rustic” but with clean facilities & the pool most welcome. All too soon we were on the road again & had booked to stay on the foothills of the Pyrenees, close to Ceret. Opted to take the bus in to Ceret, which was around 4kms from where we were staying, however the bus timetable presented us with some challenges! Headed back to pick up the bikes to cycle down instead. Two options to get there, a dedicated off road cycle path or the scenic almost over the mountain route. Guess which we chose? Thankfully the electric assist helped with the challenging inclines. Picasso lived in Ceret for 2 years & had a large community of artists & you can see why. It’s also known as the “Cherry Capital” & the first crop, harvested around March of each year is sent to the French President, a tradition dating back to 1932. Before heading back we cycled down to “Devils Bridge” built by hand in the 14th Century. On the return journey we took the sensible route back, the cycle path.
We had a rough route/plan in our heads, so decided to stop off in Provence on the way through. Now the journey was interesting, back on our favourite toll roads again but this time our wing mirror protector on the passenger side decided to extract itself from the van! It’s now laid to rest somewhere on the A8 between Cannes & Aix en Provence. The site was in a small village just outside of Aix en Provence, overlooking the Sainte Victoire mountains with a much appreciated shaded pitch & swimming pool! What we didn’t bank on was the temperatures hitting still hitting 35 degrees. The bus took us from right outside the site to Aix en Provence, the bus driver took pity on us & didn’t charge us for our trip down. It was market day & what a market, actually wished we’d got there sooner as they were packing up not long after we arrived. A fantastic selection of clothing, hats & bags for the fashionista’s. The produce markets were split across different squares in the city & the produce & flowers looked top notch. We spent several hours just getting lost in the maze of streets/squares, had a couple of pitstops, took some photo’s & found the “Penis Balconies” before heading back. The bus driver took our fare off us for the return journey. For part of the journey, we thought we were in a racing car rather than a bus, he was overtaking on blind bends & hanging over the edge of the narrow mountain roads. Fortunately it was only a 20 minute journey, so we celebrated our safe return with a dip in the pool & tried the lavender liqueur (bought in Valensole ) with chilled Prosecco.
After G’s expedition to the UK we wasted no time getting out & about to explore the places on our list! We had 2 days to do it. First up was Menton which is only 10km from the Italian border & just around the corner from Monaco. With it’s medieval hilly old town, it is picture postcard perfect. Had a quick wander around the old town, the marina & beachfront, before stopping for a pitstop!
Next up Monaco, we pulled into the very posh rail station which is underground! Walked down to the casino & witnessed a spectacle of “flash cars” parading outside the casino. Carried on downwards towards the harbour where hundreds of million euro’s worth of yachts were moored. Walked around the harbour to the outdoor swimming pool on the edge of the city. We stopped to take photo’s of the bronze Fangio statue near the famous curve on the grand prix track & located close to the formula 1 pit lane. The yacht club were setting up for what appeared to be a massive event on their outside terrance, when we strolled straight through! No booze in situ at the time but a lot of glasses in anticipation. Found the Tunnel Larvotto & walked through to the other side, an historical landmark in formula 1. The temperature was hovering around 35 degrees & with a journey home of around 45 minutes, we had seen enough of Monaco & went on our way.
The following day we had planned whistle stop trips to Nice & then back to Antibes. Again it was a scorching hot day. Generally we are very organised & have a plan, however the sun had fried our brains. Off we went to Nice on the bus – first mistake! The distance was around 7kms which took over an hour to get there, once we got off the bus we then had to catch a tram to the port area! Great value for 2.50 Euro’s each but it was painfully slow. Took the lift up to the viewpoint above the Baie de Anges for a big view all along the coast. Found the old town & had a pitstop & rethink about the rest of the day, as again the temperatures were mid 30’s. Decided to head off to Antibes on the train rather than the bus & would save us an hour. We went to the station via the Place Massena & the “Fountaine du Soleil”. When the fountain was unveiled in 1956, the residents of Nice were not impressed for various reasons. Nice is on our “To Return” list but at a cooler time of year. We caught the Intercity TGV train from Nice to Antibes & what a nice ride, the trains are clean, well staffed, organised & comfortable.
Final stop, Antibes. A town sandwiched between Cannes & Nice. An old town surrounded by 16th century ramparts & a star shaped fort (which we didn’t have time to visit) The Port Vauban marina, had some pretty spectacular boats moored. Wandered around the ramparts & through the town, we had intended to stay for something to eat but decided to head back for a swim/shower before going out for dinner! We opted for an Indian restaurant at the marina in Villeneuve-Loubet, which was a good choice, a very good choice. A nice ending to our Cote d’Azur adventure.
Both worn out after the hectic 3 days in Switzerland. We probably didn’t make the most of Annecy! It was scorching by the time we arrived. So we wandered down to the lake to suss out what was what. The campsite had direct access to the lake, with their own private beach area. We stumbled upon a municipal beach only 5 minutes from the site, so decided we would give it a try the next afternoon. As the weather was so hot, we chose to take the bus to Annecy rather than cycle. However both the bus & the city were packed out. We had timed our visit to clash with the Annecy Animation Festival, with 12,000 people attending. As a side note, our neighbours on the pitch next door, were 3 young lads from Devon, attending the festival. The city was picture postcard pretty, with lots of interesting architecture & shops to explore. We spent about 3 hours there, then called it a day due to heat & hectic. Managed to squeeze in a crepe before heading back. A couple of afternoons were spent at the beach & took a dip in the “refreshing” lake, found a beach bar around the corner & went for a cycle along the lake. We spent 3 night in Annecy before moving on , we had to start making our way down to the south for G to get his flight.
Our 1st stop was a quick overnight visit to Remoulins. Thought it was worth popping to see Pont Du Gard, the Roman aqueduct built in the 1st century to supply the city of Nimes with water. Managed to fit in a walk around the old town of Remoulins as well. It wasn’t a hectic day & we had managed to cover off a 1/3 of the journey south. We stayed over in one of the Camping Car Parks, it was our first stay with them an a bargain for just over £12!
2nd on the list was a last minute find in the Provence region, Valensole & opted to spend 2 nights here. Journey down wasn’t great as the SATNAV had another wobbler & took us right through the centre of Avignon & a tunnel that had a 2.8 metre height limit! After that fairly straightforward apart from the toll roads. Back to Valensole, it’s on the northern edge of of the Verdon Regional Park, with 300 days of sun per year it’s the perfect place for growing lavender & wheat. With one full day there we explored the small but perfectly formed town before getting our the bikes to cycle through the lavender, wheat & clary sage fields. Absolutely beautiful, however we were surprised that the lavender didn’t smell as strong as expected. Back in 1965 there was a famous “Alien Encounter in Valensole & this has been depicted by a piece of wall art in the town. We can safely say that Valensole would be on our “Return To” list.
3rd stop & our final journey for 7 days was Villeneuve-Loubet. A short train ride away from Nice, Monaco, Antibes & Cannes. Journey was much the same as the last one! Took us over some very interesting small mountain roads & through tiny villages, the journey was just about 100 miles in distance but took 3 hours. We saw a lot of Provence though. G is travelling back to the UK for Luke’s stag do, therefore M is “home alone” for 3 nights. Selected the site due to it’s great transport links to other places, it has a swimming pool & is a 5 minute walk to the beach.
For the first time on this trip, we had to stop at the border between Germany & Switzerland. After a few questions, one being did we have a vignette (of course the answer was yes) we were on our way. First stop Lucerne. We parked up & wasted no time getting the bus to Lucerne. As per our usual luck, it rained. We had a wander round the city, stopped for a drink, took some photo’s then unfortunately rain stopped play. We headed back at the right time as within a couple of hours there was torrential rain & a thunderstorm. The next morning we wandered up to the local town of Howr, as we’d spotted a barbers from the bus. G was in desperate need of a haircut, 25 Swiss Francs later he was done! Headed back, got the bikes out & went for a cycle around Lake Lucerne. The road was definitely “Millionaires Row” with beautiful, big houses both traditional & modern. We almost made it to Lucerne before turning back. We had spotted a beach bar on the way through, so decided to stop for a beverage, G was sat in the shade by the bar & I was sat on the wall by the edge of the lake to take advantage of the sun! Out of the wall, slithered a massive snake. Never ever ever seen one in the wild before & not sure we want to see one again. It was heading for a duck just bobbing about on the lake & I hoped it wouldn’t “get it”. G came over ready to tackle the situation, however the snake just slithered under another rock. We made a fast exit.
Next stop “Lazy Rancho” Unterseen near Interlaken – ready for our mountain adventures. Lovely clean family run site with views of the Eiger, Monch & Jungfrau. Not that we saw much on arrival as it was raining! We did a bit of forward planning due to the rain situation, to sit it out. Early night, we needed to be up early the next morning.
The reason for the stay here was another “Bucket List” item – to go to the top of Europe. We splashed out on a 3 day Jungfrau pass to enable us to travel on all modes of transport in the region for the time we were staying. We were going to make the most of it.
Day 1 – Jungfrau – confused over which travel option we had chosen as we had booked it on the road & not read the email. We were soon back on track & at the right station to catch the train up to the top. The trains were absolutely jam packed full, however you had to book a seat on the cog wheel train from Eigergletscher to Jungfrau. We were early, so allowed to catch the earlier train as there was space. WOW! What an experience, it was a balmy -4 degrees & a really weird experience that you are stood on snow in June. It was slightly hazy/cloudy so not the best views but who cares! As we were ahead of schedule, we decided to do the First Cliff Walk on the way back through Grindelwald. It was busy but soon we were winging our way up the mountain, to do the cliff walk & stand on the viewpoint. We were now ahead of schedule
Day 2 – Due to the organisation skills of yesterday, we had a more relaxed morning then went off to Interlaken to pick up a cruise down the Lake to Brienz. With an hour & half cruise each way & then a 2 hour stop over, it filled the afternoon. It was slightly hazy but didn’t detract from the cruise. We found a shady garden by the lake & enjoyed a drink & an ice cream sundae. Took a wander along the lakefront & then back up through the town, it was picture postcard beautiful. After arriving back in Interlaken, we headed for funicular railway to take us up to “Harder Kulm” – Top of Interlaken. Unfortunately the queue was massive, we didn’t want to get stranded up there to walk back down, both tired we agreed to come back first thing in the morning.
Day 3 – It was our intention to go back up the mountain to Lauterbrunnen then onwards to Murren. But first on the list was HK that we didn’t do yesterday. Out early & we were up there by 10am, it wasn’t the best view as it was hazy again. We enjoyed a cup of coffee, took some photo’s then made our way back down. The train station was only a 5 minute walk away, so we were soon on the train, the wrong train. Instead of taking the easy route, we opted to use as many forms of transport to cross back the mountain to Lauterbrunnen, instead of a 12 minute train ride it took us 2 hours. That said, it was much more pleasant & we got to see more of the mountains & big views. Eventually made it to Murren, which was OK but we could say we’ve been there. Headed back down for our onward journey to Wilderswil & then Unterseen. We had to be back at a reasonable time, as we were going OUT OUT! Not just out to a restaurant but a FONDUE restaurant! On arrival at the restaurant, the lady informed us that we had the best table with the best view. We were like, yeah OK but she wasn’t wrong. We dined on Cheese Fondue with bread, potato, pickled onions, gherkins, pineapple, peppers, cucumber, all washed down with a local white wine. Not content with that, we then chose to have the Chocolate Fondue. Luckily we had a 25 minute walk back, however we were still full to bursting when we got back. However it was totally worth it.
We have now been on the road for 84 days, so now heading to France & saving 6 days of our “Schengen Allowance” in case we want to drift in to Andorra! Lake Annecy, here we come.
When we started planning this trip, many many years ago we talked about doing a “Bucket List Item” – Zeppelin flight over Lake Constance. It had been eagerly booked several weeks ago, when our plans were clearer as to when we would be in the area. We had been checking the weather forecast & it was looking less likely for good weather. As we were leaving Oberstdorf for Immenstaad on Lake Constance, they phoned to rearrange from 6pm on the Monday to 10.30am. Ok so that seemed positive. We woke up on the Monday morning & the weather was dreadful, G called them as we had booked a taxi to get us there in plenty of time. Cancelled. We had a plan B to keep us occupied for the day, so headed off on the bus to Friedrichshafen & caught the train to Lindau. Enjoyed a wander around the small historic town & we had the most delicious breakfast of the trip. We then received a call to see if we were available the next day for the Zeppelin flight, there was still a chance we could achieve that bucket list tick. Back to the day though, we saw Bregenz across the harbour from Lindau, so we hopped on the ferry to have an hour or two there. As seems to happen often this trip, the dark clouds were starting to appear, so we opted to get the ferry back. We timed it perfectly to catch the train back & as we were ahead of schedule, we managed to fit in the Zeppelin museum in Friedrichshafen. All night the rain clattered down on the van & we had a sleepless night, partly due to wondering if the flight would go ahead, if not we would have to come back next year to have another attempt.
First thing we eagerly logged on to their website & all appeared to be OK, we hadn’t received a phone call & we saw on their webcam the Zeppelin was outside. Our spirits were lifted when we saw it take off, there was still that chance. We set off for the hangar & got there & the weather had improved tenfold, we were on! Got ourselves a drink & sat on the viewing terrace watching it take off & for the trip before us. It was then our turn, as we were the only two English people on the flight we had to have a separate “English” briefing from the rest. It took 5 minutes, so we then joined the German briefing which took around 20 minutes longer. Up, Up & away over Lake Constance towards Constance itself, flying over the flower island of Mainau. What surprised us both was that after take off you could walk around the gondola freely, swap seats, stand up to take photo’s & video. The gondola had two windows open so you could take photos’s without being restricted by the glass/plastic. We were also told that we could speak to the pilot/ask questions. So G was in his element talking to him! None of the other passengers bothered speaking to him. It was an absolutely fantastic experience & all too soon we were landing. A day never to be forgotten. On the way back we stopped in Friedrichshafen to have a quick wander around & walk up the 117 steps to the ninth level of the Moleturm for big views. Germany is now completed & moving on to Switzerland.
We decided to head for Oberstdorf! As per recent days, rain is forecast & with Oberstdorf being a reasonable sized town it seemed a safe bet. The stellplatz has space for around 200 vehicles, so we managed to get a space. It was pretty quiet when we arrived but wasn’t long before the masses arrived to get settled for the bank holiday. The office is only open between 9am – 10am then again from 4pm until 6pm. We had no idea how much it was or the “procedures” It then began to rain & rain & rain, G went to arrange the pitch for the next few days. The person didn’t speak English, so thank goodness for google translate & arm waving. Added to that it was cash only, we only had enough cash for 1 1/2 nights, so poor old G had to walk in to the town in an absolute downpour to a cashpoint. We paid our dues & were settled for the next 4 nights. We will be spending our 22 wedding anniversary in Oberstdorf.
On arrival we had spotted a ski jump arena, did a bit of digging & found out that you could go for a tour including the top of the jumps. The day we went there were several youths “jumping” It was great to watch & never even considered that it could be done without snow. The kids start training at 7 on the smallest jump at the arena. The town itself was lovely, with lots of small “interesting” independent shops, bars & restaurants. As an anniversary treat, we played mini golf on the most attractive course we’ve ever seen. The champion was of course G. Still not feeling up to eating out, we bought two lovely steaks & enjoyed eating outside for the first time in a while, then we went out for a few cocktails & wines. There are worse ways to spend your wedding anniversary.
The following day was brighter so decided to get the bikes out for a leisurely cycle! Stunning scenery & pressed on further than we had planned. We had spotted an alpine lake on the map, so with a bit of help from power assist we made it. Absolutely beautiful. Going back down was easier than going up, went back to “The Ranch” to sit out & enjoy a bit of much needed sunshine.
It was always our intention to “finish off” the Romantic Road, jump back on at Fussen so we could visit the Neuschwanstein Castle. We left Weer & drove through Austria towards Germany. The satnav took us over the Fern Pass, the roads weren’t too bad. Not too many squeaky bum moments but the passenger side brake pedal had a bit of use! Massive big views & drove past a beautiful alpine lake, too late to stop. Weather was a mixed bag. The castles are closer to Schwangau than to Fussen so we opted for a site just up the road on the Bannwaldsee. When staying in the area, you get free bus travel, so no need to use the bikes. Public transport again. Arrived just after lunchtime, so parked up then took the bus to Fussen. Nice town & very similar to Rothenburg, we wandered up to Lech Falls. The weather was pretty dismal by now, the waterfall was crashing down with the amount of water coming from the mountains but instead of the gorgeous turquoise blue, it was a murky shade of grey. Walked back to the town & sat at a pavement cafe watching the world go by – then it started raining! We opted to take the next bus back & called it a day. A few hours later, the sky was nice & clear so had a wander down to the lake to take some photo’s. Beautiful light down there with lots of reflections.
The next day we were going to cycle to Schwangu but as per usual, it was drizzling! We took the bus. We had decided in advance not to go inside the castle. It was pretty expensive for a half hour tour & you couldn’t take any photo’s inside. We hitched a lift up the hill on the shuttle bus & walked the short distance to a viewing point across from the castle, it was absolutely rammed with tourists. We took a few photo’s from here then continued up a winding, uneven narrow path to another viewpoint high above the first. Funnily enough, the majority of people stopped at the bridge. Headed back down to the castle, which incidentally was the one from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, walked around the outside & back down the hill. Both of us were feeling better than we had for a few days, so we had a meal in a hotel restaurant to “fuel up” We actually had some vegetables, which went down a treat. Anyway still another castle to see, so we set of in search of it. Smaller but perfectly formed with a lovely view over the Alpsee. With that it concluded our Romantic Road Run. The following morning, we were planning to set off again, however we hadn’t decided on location. Our fault but another bank holiday was creeping up on us & we hadn’t organised anywhere. Originally we had planned to head off to Lake Constance but feared we wouldn’t get a spot! Where did we end up?
So a week on & we are still getting over whatever it was we had! Added to this the rubbish weather, it’s been a slow week. We investigated “chasing the sun” by crossing the Brenner pass to Italy, however Northern Italy was forecast much the same. We stayed in Lofer for 2 nights & managed a walk in to the small town for a quick look around & to say we’d been there. Headed off for a small place in the Austrian Tyrol called Weer, we booked a family run campsite for a couple of nights. The 2 nights stretched into 5. Nice site with an onsite restaurant, hot & clean showers, washing machine,, free bus travel (again) & free entry to some of the local attractions. It gave us the perfect balance of rest with a bit of sightseeing. The highlights being a trip to Innsbruck & a local silver mine. Innsbruck was on/off our list when we visited Garmish however, glad we decided to go. What a little gem it is. Loved the town, surrounded by mountains & a lovely old town with lots of shops, bars & restaurants. It is firmly on our “To Return” list.
The silver mine was in a small town called Schwaz & in the middle ages the mine provided 85% of the worlds silver! We took a ride on a train to the mine, where we spent an hour or so on a guided tour (all in German) – we did have an audio guide downloaded on to our phones but the actual guide had so much more to say & sounded more interesting. A great place to spend a few hours, we then wandered back in to the old town of Schwaz before getting the bus back.
Both woke up feeling rough as! But it was time to hit the road as we wanted to spend a few days in Austria. Before leaving Berchtesgaden though we agreed to drive up to Obersalzburg on the way to see if we could get up to the Eagles Nest. We got on the next available bus & spent 2 hours up there, Walked through the tunnel & rode the lift up to the Teahouse at the top. Admired the massive views & wondering how they managed to build all that in 2 years.
Next stop was on G’s wishlist, Burg Hohenwerfen. The castle used in the 1968 film Where Eagles Dare. The guided tour was really good & the bell in the bell tower has been there since 1568. We were allowed to climb out of what looked like a velux window & stand next to it & touch it! The bell weighing in at 4412kg was “shipped” from Innsbruck which is 218kms away. How did they do that in 1568?
Decided to take the scenic route (shortest travel time on the satnav) to our overnight stop in Lofer. Bad move. It had been a long day & lots of mountains roads, so thought we’d just go for it rather than heading back to Salzburg & across. Both feeling ropey as we drove up the mountain roads, 9 miles in we found out that the road was closed. Turned around, went 9 miles back down the mountain roads, back to the autobahn & the long way round to Lofer. Arrived on our pitch at 6pm & promptly fell in to bed!
Our next destination was an unfortunately named mountain in Garmisch Partenkirchen for a quick overnight stop before deciding on our next move! We took the cable car to the top for stunning views over the area & across to the highest mountain in Germany, the Zugspitze. In the afternoon had a wander around the town. A very nice stopover & may be back in the area in the next few weeks. So we had a planning meeting & agreed that we would head over towards Berchetesgaden. Booked a pitch on a very nice site for 4 nights to give us a break & we can get to the local sights on the bus (which was a cancellation as they are full booked until whenever) Site was gorgeous with a heated outdoor pool & fabulous views of the mountains. Spent a pleasant afternoon sat out in the sun & later on in the pool. We did have sauna tickets BUT it was a nudey one, didn’t fancy exposing our bits to the masses, so gave it a wide berth.
We caught the bus to Salzburg for the day, we were caught in a downpour not long after arriving. Went to a restaurant for a cuppa/snack & let the rain blow over. Wandered around the town & found the catacombs dating back to 1100 in the grounds of St Peters. Both the graveyard & the catacombs were filming locations for The Sound of Music. Took a stroll across the river to the Mirabelle Gardens, another filming location for the SOM. The gardens, fountains & dwarf garden were pretty impressive but it was a bit too early in the season for the hedge tunnel. Thick black clouds were appearing overhead, so we decided to get the next bus back. Good move as it absolutely chucked it down.
For the next two days we didn’t do much! G was unwell & fortunately for us the planned trip to The Eagles Nest was cancelled on Saturday. Due to the illness/cancellation we decided to book another night at the site, to recover & then rearrange some of our planned activities. We did catch the bus up to Obersalzburg & visited the Documentation Centre, where it details in depth the history of Obersalzburg before, during & after national socialism. We spent over 2 hours in there & it was fascinating.
Desperate to get to Konigsee! We left the site mid morning, however the weather was atrocious. So much rain, freezing cold & the bus was 40 minutes late. Think we experienced four seasons in one day. Got to the lake & it was pretty grim & miserable. Walked to a viewing point but was pretty dank & uninspiring. Wandered back along the path & had talked about not taking a boat trip due to the weather conditions. However we did & what a change in the weather, so glad we did it. Sailed the 5kms to St Bartholomew’s on one of the whisper boats, enjoyed the view & the stunning scenery. Spent an hour on the island before catching the return boat. Caught the bus back to Berchtesgaden town for a quick look, cake & cuppa. By this time G had had enough & by the time we got back to The Ranch, we were both feeling ropey!
We have found that the beauty of travelling in “The Ranch” is that you can change your mind/plans at the last minute! After leaving Rothenburg we intended to do a day of visiting other places on the “Romantic Road” then head across to Munich then back on to the RR. We visited 3 of the RR towns on the Saturday, all very nice in their own way. Think we had overdosed on architecture. No doubt that Rothenburg ob der Tauber couldn’t be beaten. So plan B was activated. We spent a lovely night at a site not far from Donauworth, with it’s own swimming lake. On our way to Munich the following day, we visited the Dacahu Memorial Site, which was the first concentration camp back in 1933. The site is free to visit but we opted for audio guides to follow the story. A very solemn few hours spent there & brings you to your senses about how lucky we are!
Munich was our next destination & we had booked to stay for 2 nights. Originally we had planned to stay at the Allianz stadium stellplatz but due to the upcoming champions league final, it is temporary closed. We found a “Carpark” in the suburb of Pasing, just a 15 minute walk to the station & a 5 minute train journey to the centre of Munich, it was perfect. A bargain at £17 per night (no facilities – but a safe spot to park). G has previously been to Munich & wanted to go back to see more (not just the HB Bier Keller).
What a beautiful city & so glad we put it on the list. We had identified a church tower to climb! The first one in a while & was surprised when it had a lift up from the halfway point. Afterwards we realised we had gone up the wrong one! It didn’t matter, we still had a massive view over Munich to the Alps. The food market was interesting & it seems this time of year is popular for asparagus & strawberries. Charcuteries selling every imaginable type/flavour of sausage as well. We didn’t ventured in as we don’t know what to ask for/how much to buy. After seeing the sights on foot, we stopped at the old haunt of G & the Turner Family! The Bier Keller. What a place, although it was only Monday it was so busy. A Bavarian Oompah band blasting out some tunes, we tucked in to asparagus soup, bread & the famous giant pretzels. We waited until 5pm to watch the glockenspiel on the town hall tower. It’s 117 years old & features 2 scenes from Munich’s history. By this point we were “walked out”, so headed back.
A rough plan has been formulated for the rest of our time in Germany! Now done with the Rhine, we needed to cover off some miles to get us further south to tie in with future plans. The plan (subject to mind changing) goes like this – Romantic Road to Fussen via a detour to Munich/Dachau. We then intend to take the German Alpine Road ending in Austria. We’ll see how that goes. So far so good. Found a small village for an overnight stay on their Stellplatz, with a donation to the community. It just so happened it had a winery right across the road. What a lucky find. Before leaving we popped in & with the help of the lady chose a mixed case of their organic wines. The average bottle price being £7! Looking forward to trying it.
Two & a half hours later we arrived at our first stop on the Romantic Road or in German – Romantische Straße – it was officially launched in 1950, intending to showcase a friendly Germany. The route is 460 kilometres with 29 locations on the route. We are selecting the highlights due to time constraints. However first up is Rothenburg ob der Tauber – surrounded by a medieval city wall dating back to the 14th century. The Plönlein is one of the most picturesque & most photographed spot on the Romantic Road. We stayed at a small family run campsite in the Tauber Valley, with a footpath to the city. The only downside was it was up a steep hill, but worth it when you reached the top! The city is a delight to your eyes, so much to see you don’t know where to look! Some of the scenes from Chitty Chatty Bang Bang (the original) were filmed here & you can see why. We extended our stay by a day due to G having a reoccurrence of his back problem, On our final day we visited the medieval crime museum, what an interesting place with exhibits from trials to torture & witchcraft to weights & measures. Pretty excited to try the schneeballen (snowball) A specialty in Rothernburg, a deep fried shortcrust pastry & traditional decoration with powdered sugar. The modern versions have added chocolate & flavouring. The verdict – nondescript.
We jinxed ourselves by packing away the cold weather gear. The weather has changed again, mainly dry but a definite chill in the air. Uneventful drive from Remich to Koblenz, although we did pass through another border checkpoint after entering Germany. Arrived at the site to a queue of caravans/motorhomes waiting to “get in”. Luckily about half of the site had left or was in the process of leaving, so we were able to check in for 2 nights. To date this was the most expensive site we have stayed on, however it was worth it to be within walking distance of Koblenz. We spent the following day exploring & took a 2 hour Rhine cruise, to see beyond the city. Nice compact city & was very taken with the massive monument dedicated to German Emperor William I of Germany at German corner, the confluence of the Rhine & Moselle rivers. We saw several UK registered vans at the site, the first in about 3 weeks. All too soon it was time to leave & opted to drive down the Rhine to see a little bit more of the area. We had planned a quick stop in Boppard. Happily enjoying the views & following the Satnav, we were instructed to bear off right & take the ferry across the Rhine! No way were we going to get the van on there! Fortunately there was a parking area, so we abandoned the van & took the ferry across on foot. Nice place but very very quiet, most of the river cruise boats that day weren’t stopping at Boppard. Would imagine it would be incredibly busy in the summer months. We had a quick wander round, visited the Carmelite & Roman Catholic Churches. A cuppa & sweet treat in the town square before we caught the ferry back over & continued on our way.
Feeling frustrated & going around in circles with our German adventure, we decided to “stay away” for a few days. We had a massive planning session to plot our journey down south. First stop though, we decided to go back to Luxembourg (the country not the City). After driving through 4 countries in 2 hours, we arrived in Vianden. What a beautiful place. We took the chairlift to the viewing point over the town. Found a site just outside of the town, so we parked up, enjoyed a few hours in the sun then walked back along the L’Our river back to the town to sample the wine from the left bank of the Moselle. The next morning, it was time to move on! In just under an hour we were in Remich on the Moselle, with Germany just across the river. On the way in we passed another “Fuel Eldorado” with 11 petrol stations within a couple of kilometres. The fuel being 25 cents a litre cheaper than in Germany. The traffic was queuing from the German side to fill up. Weather was lovely, so we wandered along the promenade with the river on one side & vineyards on the other. As we drove in one of us (whose name begins with a G), spotted the mini golf! By mutual consent we agreed to play later in the afternoon. We set off full of anticipation, however half way there (the walk was only about 8 minutes) we felt spots of rain. The next minute we were in a downpour & thunderstorm that lasted all evening. Luckily though at the halfway point was a “Tiny Bar” so we stopped to dry off! In the evening we booked the two bucket list items on our list & hammered the credit card. It was also decided we would give Koblenz a second shot.
We hadn’t really formulated a plan/route for Germany! We set off to visit the town of Xanten, which incidentally is the only place in German that has a letter X at the start of it’s name. We visited the archeological park with the remains of a Roman bath house. Pretty early on we both admitted it wasn’t hitting the spot, so off we went! We had a look around the Town instead. We opted for a small stellplatz in a village/town most people probably haven’t heard of – Alderkerke. Next morning after discovering that the following day was a bank holiday in Germany, we set off to take our chances of finding a stopover around the Koblenz area. We had tried to contact sites with either no luck/no response or sorry we are full. The autobahn was wall to wall traffic with lorries & roadworks everywhere, we followed the satnav which tried to reroute us back the way we had come & again through the traffic. We stopped at a service area for a coffee. Armed with a map, we looked what was directly in line with us, it was Roermond back in The Netherlands. So that was our interlude. Spent two lovely sun drenched days at the marina there, explored the area & planned our next move.
We extended our stay in The Netherlands to experience Kings Day! The celebration of the current kings birthday. However we almost missed it. We were all geared up to go to Arnhem in our “Orange Garb” on the Sunday. On the Saturday we caught the bus down to the city to visit “The Bridge Museum” at this point, after googling we realised that the celebrations never take place on a Sunday, they bring it forward. The museum was closed so we caught the bus back to the site, had a siesta, got our orange apparel on then went back down to join the party. What a great atmosphere, a city centre festival with various areas/music/DJ’s etc. Glad we experienced it!
G did visit the Airborne Museum on the Friday & we walked through the Veluwe to the Oosterbeek War Cemetery on the Sunday.
Excitement was building for our trip to “Obelink”. A camping shop on three levels selling everything you could possible need! Roughly the size of IKEA. The carpark looked like a campsite when we arrived about 11’ ish. We spent a couple of hours there & got away lightly with spending around £80. We have a smart new whirligig washing line. So much excitement in one day as it was then onto Rees in Germany.
After a pleasant overnight stay in Stavoren, we set off first thing to visit the Wouda Pumping Station near Lemmer. Opened in 1920 it’s the largest steam pumping station every built & still in operation! We had our own personal guide as we were the only people needing an English speaking tour. Absolutely amazing engineering combined with the striking “symmetrical architecture” Would 100% not missing this if in the area. All too soon we were on our way to the long anticipated Giethoorn, unfortunately the weather was against us – it was pouring with rain. We got to our chosen location, a camperplatts within walking distance of the village. We held out until 4pm for the rain to stop – it didn’t so we donned our wet weather gear & went for it! Our original intention was to hire a self drive boat & to explore the canals but it really was dim & dismal weather. We were able to go in to the church, which was very simply decorated but had a certain something about it. Wandered around the village & considered returning in the morning to hire a boat, we decided against it as we’d seen it all. Nice place, very picturesque but time to move on.
When we learned of the “The Elfstedentocht” – “Eleven cities tour” originally completed on ice skates on the canals in Friesland. Founded in 1909 it has been declared to be in danger of “extinction” due to climate change. In the past 50 years, Elfstedentocht has taken place only 3 times, most recently in 1997. We were pointed in the direction of a “Campervan” route to visit all the places, a challenge was set to get photo’s of the 11 permanent fountains, 1 in each of the 11 cities.
1 & 2 = Harlingen & Franeker
Harlingen – originally the home of the Fresian Admiralty & back in the 17th century it was an important port for the whaling industry! Hence the fountain being a sperm whale at the Zuiderpier.
Franeker – what a find! A planetarium built by Eise Eisinga between 1774 and 1781. It is the oldest working planetarium in the world & is now on the UNESCO world heritage list. Now on to the fountain – it’s an ode to the world-famous astronomer Jan Hendrik Oort, born in Franeker.
3 & 4 = Dokkum & Leeuwarden
Dokkum – anglo saxon missonary St Boniface born in Crediton, Devon died in Dokkkum, Friesland in 754! Dokkum has the smallest hospital in the Netherlands. The fountain – The Ice Fountain, no two days are the same as it depends on the elements. The day we visited it had ice on it! – Created by an artist from the Netherlands – Birth Leemeijer
Leeuwarden – capital city of Friesland with a tower that is leaning more than the tower of Pisa. The Elfstedentocht starts & finishes in Leeuwarden – The Fountain Love is two 7 metre high white sculptures of a boy & girl. Created by a Spanish artist – Jaume Plensa
5 & 6 = Bolsward & Workum
Bolsward – wedged in between the cities of Sneek & Franeker. The town was founded before Christ. During the middle ages it was a trade centre & port city, via the middle sea. The fountain – The Bat by Johan Creten from Belgium
Workum – has four windmills! For centuries the coat of arms have been supported by two lions. The fountain – The Rampant Lions of Workum, a rather interesting take by British Artist Cornelia Parker where a “bit of British Humour” has been added. Ummmm not too sure about that.
7 & 8 = Sneek & IJLst
Sneek – couldn’t wait to get here! Sneak has the largest sailing event on inland European waterways & it’s called Sneekweek. The Waterpoort is the symbol of the city & the clock is always 5 minutes fast. The fountain – Fortuna’s Fountain by Stephan Balkenhol from Germany
IJLst – known as the wood city! It has unique waterside gardens which were originally used for bleaching clothing. The fountain – By Shinji Ohmaki from Japan is Immortal Flowers
9, 10 & 11 = Hindeloopen, Sloten & Stavoren
Hindeloopen – has it’s own language mixing west Frisian, English, Danish & Norwegian. It sits on the IJsselmeer, which is a closed off fresh water lake, covering 420 square miles. The fountain – Flora & Fauna by Shen Yuan, China
Sloten – it is the smallest city in Friesland & the most difficult to find! The original structure of Sloten has been preserved. The fountain – Peewit by Jorge & Lucy Orta from Argentina & United Kingdom
Last but not least Stavoren! – the oldest city in Friesland & on the coast of the IJsselmeer. Home to an impressive looking pumping station The JL Hoogland which was put to work in 1967. It drains the Friesian lakes into the IJsselmeer. There is a unique hotel here, you can sleep in a Swiss wine barrel. The fountain – The Fishfountain for Stavoren by US artist Mark Dion.
We were up & on the road fairly early’ish to drive the 20 miles to Den Helder & secure a spot at the Yacht Werf Willemsoord. We didn’t have a plan B at this point. However we got a space, we timed it just right as several vehicles had left, by 12 noon the “VOL’ sign (full) was put up. We opted to spend two nights as we wanted to take the ferry over to Texel. The first day, G went to the Naval Museum located right next to where we were staying & spent a few hours there. Popped in to the City for a quick look around & it started to rain! We headed back to the van to escape from it.
The next day we took the ferry over to Texel! It is the largest & most populated island of the West Frisian Islands & located in the Wadden Sea. For the bargain price of £10 we got a return ticket for the two of us with our bikes. We followed the coast cycle path from T Horntje to Oudeschild then on to Oosterend where we stopped for refreshments at one of the small bars there. We had stopped earlier on for a small picnic overlooking the Wadden Sea, but it was blowing a hooley & pretty cold. We then headed to one of the main towns Den Burg, where we had a look around some of the independent shops before setting off back to catch the ferry. A very enjoyable & tiring day & reckon we clocked up around 19.6 miles on our trusty bikes (only really used the boost to help us on the way back to the ferry as cycling in to the very strong wind). Would love to return to the island with “The Ranch” & spent more time exploring.
Not sure how, but we identified a potential stop over not far from Alkmaar! Located on a bulb farm wedged between the sand dunes & bulb fields. It sounded idyllic & had very good reviews. So the race was on to get a space. We arrived shortly after 11am & all the spaces on the grass were occupied & a German van had just pulled in ahead of us. Fortunately the owner was very accommodating & fitted us both in on “the second row”, we still had a fairly nice view. We walked over to the beach through the sand dunes & it was absolutely stunning, even dipped our toes in the very very cold North Sea. We then had a cycle down to the local town Callantsoog, browsed in the local independent shops & then decided to have a pizza rather than cook, a night off from cooking.
When back at “The Ranch” M decided to go for a quick cycle down between the bulb fields again, as she had walked through there earlier & saw the various stages of the ground being prepped for new planting & the bulbs being planted. It really was a beautiful location. Wished we had found it sooner & been able to stay longer.
